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Post by RedAndBlack on May 16, 2019 10:03:00 GMT -7
I have a 2018 mt10 I bought it brand new at first I didn't notice the ticking noise but I think it was there, so I took it to the dealer and had them put a new tensioner on and same problem, then I bought the ape manual tensioner installed it and exactly the same noise, I have 2500 miles on the bike now. I tightened my exhaust manifold thinking maybe that could be it be nope. I'm thinking a valve adjustment but if everyone has the same problem maybe I'll save my money. Also my bike gets pretty hot 230 degrees at times I wonder if anyone else has the same problem.
The ticking is a normal thing that most sportbikes these days do. A auto cam chain tensioner is a mechanical part that only occasionally adjusts the tension on a cam chain. The chain tensioner will only do the adjustment when it's able to "reach" the new adjustment, leading to that time spent in purgatory that the cam chain is slightly loose and ticks a little. It's completely normal and in my opinion, a manual cam chain tensioner is not the answer. You now have to go in and manually do this tension every now and then and it's something that if you do wrong, can have serious consequences with the bike.
As far as the temperature, 230 is fine. I see it routinely especially on hotter days, in low gear, stuck in traffic or between traffic lights. Another thing that shouldn't be a concern until you start getting above the 245 range.
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kratosfz10
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Posts: 103
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Registered: Jul 15, 2017 18:39:39 GMT -7
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Post by kratosfz10 on May 16, 2019 19:19:58 GMT -7
I have a 2018 mt10 I bought it brand new at first I didn't notice the ticking noise but I think it was there, so I took it to the dealer and had them put a new tensioner on and same problem, then I bought the ape manual tensioner installed it and exactly the same noise, I have 2500 miles on the bike now. I tightened my exhaust manifold thinking maybe that could be it be nope. I'm thinking a valve adjustment but if everyone has the same problem maybe I'll save my money. Also my bike gets pretty hot 230 degrees at times I wonder if anyone else has the same problem. I would agree with RedandBlack. At the beginning of this season, I re-adjusted mine to the <3 degrees of movement spec'd by the Grave's install manual. The tick might be slightly less, but that's probably just wishful thinking on my part. Unless there is an issue with your stock automatic cam chain tensioner, you will not accomplish anything by installing a manual one, other than added maintenance.
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Post by thefinn on May 17, 2019 0:55:37 GMT -7
When stuck in traffic, my bike frequently gets to 220F even when its 45F outside.
Not to worry, its a large engine that produces a lot of heat (why so fuel inefficient). The fans will take care of it once it reaches a ceirtain point.
My previous bike, the FZ-07 did the same. So does my cousins CBR500R.
Cars dont do that as they run the fans much earlyer, and the thermostat gradually opens (as far as i know) so the temperatures are balanced out at all times.
On motorcycles you dont want the fans to run all the time, simply because they are loud and annoying.
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Post by hooli on May 17, 2019 8:00:15 GMT -7
I think that this is being over-thought. As RedAndBlack said it's pretty much a sportbike thing, if not a modern motorcycle thing period. Keep in mind a couple of things:
An engine with proper valve clearances will have some noise. As the valve seats wear and the valve clearances tighten up between the cam lobe and the valve stem (via tappet or bucket), it will actually start to get quieter.
Some of what you're hearing may be the fuel injectors. Yes, I said fuel injectors. They incorporate an electronic solenoid and they can be noisy. I've removed the injectors from my GSXR and had them cleaned and tested, and I couldn't believe the racket they made. They're pretty chatty by nature.
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kratosfz10
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Registered: Jul 15, 2017 18:39:39 GMT -7
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Post by kratosfz10 on Feb 16, 2020 14:02:41 GMT -7
I got one of these tools to try and measure the degree of play in the cam chain better than trying to hold my phone on the wrench using an angle app. Using this tool showed that it was not adjusted tight enough to the <3 degrees spec'd by graves for this tensioner. I now have it adjusted between 2 and 3 degrees per this tool, but now there is a slight whirring sound. It doesn't make this sound when idling, but when revving, it is noticeable, but not really loud. I didn't expect it to stop the ticking, but wanted to try a better tool to make sure it wasn't too loose. Should there be absolutely NO whirring sound at all, or is it ok to have a slight whirring sound due to the manual tensioner being a little tighter than the auto?
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csmhog
New Member
Retired Army, now certified full time MC tech. Love my job!!
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Registered: Mar 13, 2020 17:15:36 GMT -7
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Post by csmhog on Mar 23, 2020 13:47:12 GMT -7
Hello gents, I have a 2019 MT10 ... just finished the FIRST oil change so nothing too aggressive yet. It’s had the Yami-tick since day one (last week). Called the dealer and was told Yamaha issued a bulletin saying it’s normal. It was driving me nuts! Finally took the time to put a stethoscope to it, it wasn’t the tensioner at all ... it’s the fuel injectors. At least I can sleep at night now.
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smokinfz10
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Posts: 82
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Registered: Nov 28, 2019 7:07:35 GMT -7
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Post by smokinfz10 on Mar 23, 2020 18:27:13 GMT -7
Zero ticking on my 17 FZ10 with 2511 miles.
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kratosfz10
Full Member
Posts: 103
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Registered: Jul 15, 2017 18:39:39 GMT -7
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Post by kratosfz10 on Mar 24, 2020 4:42:02 GMT -7
Hello gents, I have a 2019 MT10 ... just finished the FIRST oil change so nothing too aggressive yet. It’s had the Yami-tick since day one (last week). Called the dealer and was told Yamaha issued a bulletin saying it’s normal. It was driving me nuts! Finally took the time to put a stethoscope to it, it wasn’t the tensioner at all ... it’s the fuel injectors. At least I can sleep at night now. Interesting, I emailed back and forth with Nick at Stoltec, he said the cam chain had guides to prevent it from jumping a tooth and that the bike is happier with the cam chain a little loose. So now knowing this, I went out and played with the manual tensioner while it was running. I backed it out until I could hear rattling and then tightened until the rattle went away. The rattle that was created by loosening the cam chain tensioner was no where near where the ticking/clattering is coming from. So this makes sense, I just never knew injectors could be so loud.
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Deleted
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Registered: Apr 26, 2024 21:37:24 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Mar 27, 2020 13:17:37 GMT -7
The loudest noise on my bike when cold is the clutch (right side), but no 'tick' other than normal valvetrain noise and injectors. But the injectors are not that loud on my bike. Direct-injection ones are loud, due to around 1,200 psi, vs 50 for port-injection, like ours. All motorcycle engines are loud, but at least so far, there's nothing abnormal on my FZ-10, fortunately. But it's a good practice to hear the engine without earplugs both cold and hot, just to make sure nothing is changing .
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kgeorge
New Member
Posts: 1
Registered: Apr 22, 2021 9:44:43 GMT -7
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Post by kgeorge on Apr 22, 2021 10:06:17 GMT -7
Got a question for the gurus on here before pulling the trigger on the APE MCCT.
Backstory: Recently did valve adjustments on my bike, (stupidly) didn't replace the gasket on the OEM CCT, and after a month is seeping out oil. No biggie normally, but the OEM CCT was impossible to reset/reseat. I had to actually pay a technician to do it after many hours of failed attempts. And after installing the CCT in the bike, took about an hour to release the retaining clip to allow the CCT to extend (manual's trick to rotate the crank clockwise wasn't working, long flat head works wonders where the radiator normally sits). From all this work, in guessing there is an issue with my CCT.
Is there any issues with oil flow after installing the APE MCCT?
If anyone has any insight that would be awesome! Thanks in advance.
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ramage
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Registered: Feb 5, 2018 10:53:59 GMT -7
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Post by ramage on Jun 23, 2021 11:10:51 GMT -7
Got a question for the gurus on here before pulling the trigger on the APE MCCT. Backstory: Recently did valve adjustments on my bike, (stupidly) didn't replace the gasket on the OEM CCT, and after a month is seeping out oil. No biggie normally, but the OEM CCT was impossible to reset/reseat. I had to actually pay a technician to do it after many hours of failed attempts. And after installing the CCT in the bike, took about an hour to release the retaining clip to allow the CCT to extend (manual's trick to rotate the crank clockwise wasn't working, long flat head works wonders where the radiator normally sits). From all this work, in guessing there is an issue with my CCT. Is there any issues with oil flow after installing the APE MCCT? If anyone has any insight that would be awesome! Thanks in advance. Short note on the OEM CCT. It's genuinely easy to reset, the manual just does a bad job of explaining it. You need to clamp it gently in a vise or C clamp so that you can rotate the piston clockwise while also putting pressure on it. You just have to compress and rotate at the same time, back it off if it binds. Once the top pinch clip aligns with the groove at the top of the compressed piston, pinch the clip inside the groove and loosen the vise to let the piston expand back out. The clip should then be trapped and tensioned by the piston trying to expand back out. You can stop pinching the clip and it should be stuck. As for releasing it in the engine, I'm surprised what you did didn't work. I have no tips for that unfortunately.
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