bogeyman
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Registered: Mar 24, 2017 11:52:15 GMT -7
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Post by bogeyman on Apr 30, 2017 16:36:49 GMT -7
I just received my LighTech rearsets (very nice piece of kit, if I do say so myself).
However, not 100% sure what to do about the brake switch.
The stock switch is 4-wires. The LighTech rearsets specify to use a banjo-bolt pressure actuated switch - which has only two wires. Not sure how to resolve this.
Anyone else encountered a similar issue?
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Deleted
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Registered: Nov 23, 2024 1:07:57 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2017 3:46:49 GMT -7
I haven't looked at the connections myself but I expect that the extra two wires are to disable cruise control when the brake is applied.
I see two options; If there is no way to mount the OEM brake switch perhaps you can use a multimeter to test the connector on the brake switch to see which pairs go together. If you're not going to reuse the brake switch you can then cut the connector off and solder the two wires from your pressure switch to each pair on the brake switch connector.
There is some risk to this without fully understanding how the internals of the brake switch are set up and how the ECU reads that the rear brake has been applied. When the brake switch is closed you'll have current going through it to power the light because as far as I know there is no relay for the rear brake light. If you solder the 2 pairs of wires into one you would be sending this same current to the ECU. The fact that there are 4 pins to the brake switch instead of two indicates a possibility that the brake light and cruise control circuits are separate inside the switch.
The other, and in my mind safer option is to run jumper wires between pairs of wires on the bike side of the brake switch connector and see which activate the brake light. Wire up your pressure switch to those two wires and understand that the rear brake will not disable cruise control, or do it vice versa.
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sam07
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Registered: Jan 18, 2017 17:08:38 GMT -7
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Post by sam07 on May 1, 2017 19:10:14 GMT -7
The service manual is very detailed on the functionality and design of the rear brake switch. This may be helpful adapting to your setup. The switch is dual stage first disabling cruise control then activating the brake light. If not adjusted correctly, cruise will never engage. I discovered this the hard way....
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srosa
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Registered: Dec 10, 2016 23:22:17 GMT -7
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Post by srosa on May 2, 2017 7:48:28 GMT -7
In addition to the brake switch, I would also address the lack of an adequate return spring by adding a Woodcraft return spring kit to the master cylinder. As far as the switch goes, my plan with the LighTech rearsets was to buy a used Yamaha switch off eBay just for the brake side plug. This way you don't have to splice into the wiring or sacrifice the OEM switch. I was going to use a single stage hydraulic switch for the brake light circuit only and lose the ability to cancel CC with the rear brake. I ended up having to go with Gilles rearsets due to pipe mount issues with my Graves pipe but would have preferred LighTech.
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latte
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Post by latte on May 2, 2017 16:22:42 GMT -7
I've was in a similar situation when I tried running a Brembo RCS master cylinder. Attempted all sorts of wiring tricks and external relays trying my best with the service manual wiring schematic. Ended up going with the R1 Nissin unit because the front brake switch dropped right in. I was super bummed.. but yes the extra two wires are for the cruise control cancel. Cruise control wiring is tied into a whole lot of other systems.. PM if you want some details as to what did not work.. the only way I saw feasible was somehow rigging the stock switch to the new setup.
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baron
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Registered: Sept 22, 2016 13:58:09 GMT -7
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Post by baron on May 3, 2017 11:28:26 GMT -7
I'm looking to order the lightech rear sets as well, but Im going to wait until you get yours setup Please let us know of your progress or any other problems. and pics please! I corresponded with TAW and the guy basically says : We have no idea as far as 4 wire for the FZ / MT-10. The LighTech part is RFTR93, which is the 2 wire, and what LighTech have listed on their installation sheet for that bike. www.tawperformance.com/lightech-hydraulic-stop-switch-m10-x-1-25 LighTech has stated that most EURO spec bikes do not come equipped with cruise control, which may be the case on this Yamaha and why they only offer a 2 wire switch, as all their data is from EURO spec bikes. All other brands of hydraulic stop switches, that we are aware of ( K&S, vortex, etc ) , are also 2 wire units
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bogeyman
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Registered: Mar 24, 2017 11:52:15 GMT -7
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Post by bogeyman on May 10, 2017 12:29:10 GMT -7
Well, my plan right now is to order up a spare rear light switch assembly (P/N # B67-82530-00-00 - cost is around $35) and mess with that.
I've taken the one on the bike apart (and reassembled it!) - it's fairly simplistic. I don't have pics at the moment, but I'll attempt to update this thread with some later.
The switch is separated into a left & right side. In its resting state the top wire is connected to the bottom wire. As you depress the brake, a pair of contacts move down the [internal] face of the switch. Halfway through the stroke, the circuit between the top & bottom wire is broken as the contact plate slides down.
What I want to do is maintain brake light functionality (on/off when you use the brakes) and have cruise control simply cancel when the brake is actuated.
Stay tuned...
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wjmoore
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Registered: Feb 7, 2023 19:00:18 GMT -7
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Post by wjmoore on May 10, 2023 9:07:04 GMT -7
Did you get anywhere on this? I have the same issue. Thanks in advance!
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