Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 19:33:38 GMT -7
Yes. This should have been started a LONG time ago. Hoping to catch up now in the off-season and keep it current from this point forward. It was written 'live' at the time, so don't mind the out of date photos and context. Just for history's sake...so without further ado:
It's here, it's here, it's here! Not exactly per the original plan, but heck, what goes as planned?
We've been really excited about this bike - for years - certainly before the official US announcement earlier this year. Hot off the FZ-09, this will be the next chapter. Hopefully it's a good one.
My son and I went to pick it up this AM. Beautiful day, but it was in the mid-90's and high humidity. Honestly, it was nice riding back in an air conditioned truck. My oh my, I've gotten soft...
Short of a 10 mph ride around the parking lot to quickly verify operation (of first gear), haven't had time to get it on the road yet. It's been a long day of anticipation, but all was not lost. First order of business was giving the bike a once over. While I was at it, I topped off the fuel - and weighed the bike.
Sometimes manufacturers are honest when it comes to wet weights, but more often than not, they are 'optimistic'. Case in point, the 414 lb FZ-09 was actually 420 lbs on our scale. So, it was with trepidation that we fact checked Yamaha's weight on this 'big boned' sibling.
Drum roll please...
Front: 239.5 lbs Rear: 223.5 lbs Total: 463 lbs.
Right on the money!
I have to admit, the styling is growing on me. I still recall my initial thoughts when I saw photos on the internet last year after the release. I shouldn't repeat the words I used, but it wasn't kind. First thought was that the designers were playing a joke on us and actually unveiled the mule. You know, the one camouflaged up that you see in the motorcycle magazines. So yeah, I wasn't a fan.
Over the course of the past 8 months, it's fair to say I've warmed up to it. No, it'll never be mistaken as anything coming out of Italy. Or the UK for that matter. But, in a world that often criticizes the Japanese for being too conservative, this is unique from every angle. While the transformer styling won't do it for everyone, I think it pulls it off well in-person. The level of fit and finish is pretty good in every area that matters. There are still typical Yamaha cost cutting measures - like the cheap silver levers (clutch is non-adjustable as always), the cable actuated clutch, and the crude exhaust. But the rest of the bike - the parts that were actually styled and not originally meant to be hidden behind the plastic fairings on a race bike - looks pretty good. Aesthetics aside, the attention to detail is refreshingly good. I'd say it's on par with the Kawi Z1000.
More updates to come as the project progresses. First order of business, though...ride the damn thing! It's dark here in deer country, so we'll wait to scrub in the new tires, bed the pads, and seat the rings until we have day light.
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 19:34:16 GMT -7
Oh, that sound! How else can you make your driveway sound like Moto GP’s pit lane? You could buy an R1, but then you’d have to figure out how to ride it for more than 20 minutes at a time. The FZ-10’s battle cry is fierce, even if subdued. If a V4 played a musical instrument, it’d be the djideriedoo and it’d sound like the crossplane crank CP4. What a treat!
It’s been a few days since I picked up the bike and I’ve gotten a lot of questions on what I thought. Not necessarily being lazy about it, but I wanted to hold my tongue until I’ve had enough time to write fitting review. Often times, riders get a little euphoric with that new bike smell. I’m no different. At the same time, I’ve been blessed with owning, riding, and working on some really neat bikes over the years. Some have been better than others, but in general, they’ve all gotten better over time. Progress is good — usually.
As it stands, I’ve put about 300 miles on the machine since Sunday morning. I’ll cut right to the chase: I wasn’t blown away at first. Before you label me jaded, spoiled, or disillusioned, allow me: I am jaded, spoiled, and disillusioned. This may not surprise many of you reading this, but I share the same affliction as you. I cannot leave anything alone. I’ve been in a fortunate position that the business allows me access to some really knowledgeable industry-insiders. Experience has also guided my interests, personal taste, and mechanical aptitude. Learning new stuff every day, but I’m at a point where I can generally spot what will work for me and what won’t. I’ve spent a lot of time and money obtaining this experience. All this is to say that the FZ-10 is a very natural progression from the last FZ project bike: the 2014 FZ-09. Within ‘reason’, no expense was spared on that project — both in time and money. Simply put, it was awesome in nearly every way. Although it was a little buzzy and lacked wind protection, the suspension and chassis were dialed in for my riding needs. The brakes were track-capable with excellent feel. The slipper clutch transformed the bike. I can go on, but I won’t. This is about the FZ-10.
It’s taken me three days to figure out why I wasn’t enamored during the first ride. As it turns out, it’s because it feels so much like a very well prepped bike that it was a seamless transition. Yes, there are wrinkles that can be ironed out and personalized, but in general, Yamaha nailed it. While the FZ-09 always went rowdy, eager to lift a wheel, and generally, act a fool, the FZ-10 is different. Somehow, a 160 hp super naked doesn’t feel excessive. In fact, it feels just right [\i]. Listen, we all know designing motorcycles isn’t easy business. The sheer number of bikes on the market and iterations within each model is testament that we’re always in search of something better. Performance, comfort, balance, fun, or some combination thereof.
I can’t help but imagine that the FZ-09 was designed by a younger group of engineers and test riders on a more limited budget. These folks wanted something brash, and damnit, they got it. In spades. The FZ-09 punches far above its weight, and its runaway sales success further solidify that claim. The FZ-10 by comparison seems to have been designed by a more <ahem> mature group of engineers. I’m not talking about Goldwingers and FJR-lovers. No, I’m talking about people who value things other than an ability to wheelie for an entire tank of gas. The best analogy I can use is that the FZ-09 makes power like a two-stroke dirt bike: immediate with near instant throttle response. The FZ-10 feels like a four stroke. Though undoubtedly faster, it is easier to ride and lets you focus on things other than keeping the front wheel on the ground and in line with the rear.
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 19:35:19 GMT -7
What can I say that hasn’t already been said? It. Just. Plain. Works. But more importantly, the rest of the bike agrees with the engine’s intents. The result is a powerplant that works well from 2000 RPM to redline. Like other crossplane engines before it, there is a gentle thrum to remind you that you’re not on some run of the mill inline four. It’s different than a V4, but the effect is similar. Smooth torque delivery, great traction, and minimal vibration. I’m at a loss for new words, so I’ll fall back on the ubiquitous ‘Freight Train’. As the miles are adding up and the engine is breaking in, the performance is surely improving. Acceleration in the first four gears is breathtaking.
Gearing, and spacing within, is well suited for the street. Great tractability in town or on the backroads. Relaxation at highway speeds. Lever feel is light and direct, but I’ll admit that there is a hint of notchiness that I hope disappears with age. It’s not crunchy per se, but it isn’t Honda-smooth. It’ll be nice if the Yamaha quickshifter from Europe is plug n’ play. We’ll see.
The slipper assist clutch takes a light pull. Less than the FZ-09 and more in line with the XSR900. If I’m picking nits, I’d say the back torque tuning could be a bit less for my personal taste. It’s not as seamless as the $1,000 Suter I had on the FZ-09, and it feels a bit behind the XSR900 in terms of engagement smoothness. Of course, the bike is new. We’ll see how things loosen up.
Now that they’re bedded in, I can confirm that these need help. The R1 gets a radial master cylinder, stainless steel brake lines, and different calipers. Although the brakes are effective, initial bite is soft and the lever isn’t as firm as a proper sportbike. Needless to say, this will be one of the first areas we address.
Haven’t had to test the ABS, yet. Hopefully never.
Without question, the chassis geometry and design is the best in the FZ lineup. If that surprises you, you’re probably in over your head. It provides good feedback while cranked over without getting upset with mid-corner surface imperfections. Steering is light at low speeds, and stable at high speeds (in fairness, that is partially due to the electronic steering stabilizer). The whole package works so well that it doesn’t take long to forget about the bike. Or, I should clarify: it doesn’t take long to forget what the bike is doing underneath you. We’ll play around with some things on the chassis, but it’ll be more out of curiosity than necessity.
Seat height feels ‘right’ for me and my 31” inseam. Not quite flat footed, but not on my tippy toes, either. Right, wrong, or indifferent it feels like how I like my bikes to feel. Or, how I’ve been programmed to feel. Either way, this is a welcome improvement over the low seat height on the FZ-09.
Leg room is ample — no cramps during the first 100 mile break-in ride. It’s too soon to say if the pegs are too low for track usage, but time will tell. Reach to the bars is a touch on the long side for me if my butt is pushed back onto the flattest part of the seat (right up against the odd little bump). Scooching forward eliminates the stretch for me. Bars are a great bend at what feels to be a great width and pullback. I suppose we’ll work with Woodcraft to make another set of the clip-on adapters, but I’m not sure it’s out of necessity. The FZ-09 left me feeling like a parachute on the highway, but not on the FZ-10. Well, I suppose that’s only partially true: speeds over 90 mph exert a bit of pressure of my chest. But, it’s never too much to handle since that curious looking windscreen actually does a great job of deflecting a clean blast of air away from the torso.
The mirrors work well, but still show more of my elbows that I’d like, even when adjusted all the way out. An easy fix. My only ergonomic complaint so far is with the clutch lever. A $13,000 bike should have two adjustable levers. The reach is just far away enough for my size 8-8.5 fingers that it takes some effort to smoothly downshift. Getting back to the clutch and slipper, I expect a proper lever will alleviate some of the initial concerns. I’m just programmed for a closer clutch lever. The brake lever isn’t bad, but comfort puts me in between two settings. Such is life, but it’s easily rectified.
The seat doesn’t offend me - yet.
Traction control works, and from what I can tell so far, pretty smoothly. Cycling from off to level 3 (most intrusive), you can feel the electric nannies intervene. However, the effect isn’t intrusive. Pretty pleased. The D-modes are different than what Yamaha did on the FZ-09. Here, the softest is STD, followed by A, and then B. Naming convention aside, I find the throttle control best in STD. It’s a bit soft off the bottom if I’m being honest, but it works well after that. Engine braking feels pretty good all around. A and B get more aggressive, which is OK in the ‘up’ rev. Down, however is very abrupt. Without seeing the maps, it’s hard to say if the engine braking is too abrupt, the throttle maps are too aggressive, or if the decel fuel cut is the culprit. I’m picking nits here, though. Because really, I could ride all day in STD and never complain. Again, it just works. And it works well.
Cruise control. Get some! Love it. Nothing else needs to be said.
I appreciate the standard power port behind the headlight. In today’s smartphone world, this should be standard on all bikes. Haven’t had a chance to use the headlights at night, but the days are getting shorter and this will happen sooner rather than later. To my eyes, it looks like the FZ-10 lifted the headlights from the R1 and lumped them closer together. The taillight is the same as the FZ-09, which I always liked. And the turn signals — good Lord! It’s about time they ditched those ancient pumpkins and moved to LED… Strictly subjectively speaking, I think the bike looks better (and smaller) in person than it does in the photos we’ve all seen on line. That goes for the black, too. I was set on the Armor Gray until I saw this in person. It really looks very good — excellent fit and finish. Even if you don’t care for the styling, you have to give Yamaha credit — it’s a different approach.
You didn’t think I’d forget about the suspension, did you? Fully adjustable at both ends (with high speed compression on the shock). Thankfully, Yamaha didn’t stray too far from the R1 here. I’ll be honest though: the first ~100 miles were embarrassingly unproductive from a suspension standpoint. The ride was overly harsh, traction was limited, and steering effort was sub-par. One gravel road was so harsh and chattery, I had to turn around. Turns out, in all my excitement, I forgot to check the dealer’s work. The result? How about 67 psi in the front tire and something so high that none of my tire pressure gauges would register on the rear? Trust but verify. Lesson learned, thankfully not the hard way. With that behind us, tire pressure was corrected to something more streetable: 33 psi front and 36 psi rear (cold). Not looking to hit the track, so this was an attempt for a good street starting point. As expected, it took the chatter out and made things a lot better. Grip, feel, ride quality. Good.
Happy to report that the FZ-10 shares none of the FZ-09’s woes. We actually have damping (of both varieties), and the spring rates are reasonable for a general all-purpose machine. If you have any issues, it’s probably your fault — not the bike’s. However, all is not perfect. Much like the XSR900, Yamaha took the FZ-09’s inadequacies and took the solution a bit too far. For my 190 lb self (in gear), the suspension defaults to harsh, even with the damping optimized. If you only ride on the track or smooth roads, you’ll probably be ok with the damping (assuming the spring rates work for you). Fortunately, I know someone who can help…stay tuned!
All in all, what an amazing machine. It reminds me an awful lot of the Speed Triple, which is a good thing. This shouldn’t be terribly surprising given the similarities in wet weight, dimensions, torque, and ergonomics. Now that I’ve gotten through most of the ‘critical thinking’, I can set about enjoying the bike and fixing some of the small concerns. But rest assured, those concerns are relatively minor and easily fixable. Yamaha really hit this one out of the park. Like the old FZ1, but better.
Rather than take a bunch of photos, I figured it'd be best to use a video. Hope this helps paint a better picture of the bike.
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 19:38:25 GMT -7
As (unfortunately) expected, the stationary front wheel disabled the TC system and tripped a CEL. So, no way to quantify the effects of TC on power output. Until we figure something out...
Otherwise, we did about 5 runs per mode. What you see here is the best of each mode.
Unfortunately, time was limited and we didn't have enough left to access an ignition lead to pull RPM (and torque). However, I was able to back-calculate the RPM based on wheel speed and obtain torque readings as shown here. Please be aware that the RPM and torque trace are calculated!! There is some inherent error in the dyno, with the actual circumference of the rear tire, etc. This is only shown to give a feel for the actual torque curve. So reader beware!
The curves passes the sniff test based on my seat of the pants. Torque picks up pretty strong at ~4,000 RPM which matches the feel from the saddle. From there, the bike makes about 75% or more of its peak torque to redline. There are a couple bumps along the way, but the ~8,000 RPM peak matches up with the reality-distorting rush from the saddle. But again, reader beware - this data was calculated!
For those who don't like to read:
For reference, a stock FZ-09 puts out 104 whp on the same dyno. This number is well within the expected range. As such, it's a little confusing that the FZ-10 is putting down the power that it is. Euro MT-10's have pulled numbers in the 138-140 whp range, but I'll withhold judgment until we get more data (both MT and FZ). One data point it hardly a trend, but a 160 hp (crank) bike typically puts out more power at the wheel. A stock 150 hp Ducati MTS 1200 makes about 130 hp at the wheel.
Before the topic gets sidetracked, let's avoid discussions of dyno error, operator error, etc. until we have more data from other bikes on both sides of the pond. Hopefully, this power rating doesn't follow in the footsteps of the 2006 R6 redline debacle. Perhaps the output is a function of some TC/CEL do-loop trickery...
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 19:42:56 GMT -7
It's about that time: deconstruction. What better way to 'use' a new 800-mile old bike? Take it apart.
First order of business is to get the shock down to Penske for a dyno baseline. It arrived there last Friday, so hopefully have some data back this week.
Not much to report on yet, but for those who embark on this project, I recommend removing the rear wheel to gain extra clearance. I was surprised to see they kept the hollow bolts from the R1.
While we were back on the swingarm, figured it was a good time to verify fitment of the Pitbull Trailer Restraint system. Given the age of the bike, Pitbull didn't have fitment information on the bike. Based on what we know, including the fiche, took a gamble on the R1 pins. Perfect fit. JB-R and JB-L.
If you trailer your bike to the track and haven't heard of this kit, do yourself a favor and check it out. Your life will improve for the better. You'll never wonder if your bike fell over inside the trailer or if the straps on your open trailer loosened up in the rain. Your looks will improve, you'll make more friends, and your dog's farts will stop stinking. Winning all around!
Since the rear suspension, or lack thereof, prevented the bike from being ridden, it seemed like a good time to address the other deficient area of the bike: brakes!
Complete removal of the lines - rubber and hard.
Typical of all ABS bikes with the servo under the seat, there are a lot of lines and joints. The plan is to eliminate the hard lines completely unless an insurmountable challenge presents itself. Reduced number of leak points, easier installation (once you remove the hard lines - the flare fittings can be hard to get at), and less weight.
Unfortunately, getting the lines off, requires removal of the airbox and lowering of the radiator (though no coolant was drained). The worst part was getting those damn scoops off. I'm a little disappointed in how fiddly these bits are. I though this level of bastard was reserved for, and monopolized by, Triumph. Live and learn.
Here's a few shots of the bikes innards for the curious amongst the audience.
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 19:44:03 GMT -7
The jury has deliberated and the verdict is in on the shock. Meh. In fairness, it's leaps and bounds beyond that of the 'lesser' FZ's. By a long shot. But that shouldn't be a surprise to anyone who hasn't been living under a rock for the past three years.
First, the shock is identical externally to the R1 with one exception: The R1 has ride height adjustment while the FZ-10 does not. Despite what we've read in the press, the FZ-10 shock has the same spring according to our measurements. Both bikes use a spring that spec'd out at ~475-480 lb/in. Makes you wonder what they were thinking since the FZ has a heavier steel subframe, factory option luggage, and a greater probability of a pillion rider. Really - have you seen the R1's seat? I'd rather walk.
Our prototype shock is being built next week, and we'll start testing with a 550 lb/in spring rate for a 195 lb geared rider. Pro racers typically run 600-650 depending on the circuit and track conditions, so that should give you some perspective on how poorly sprung the bike is. So I'll reiterate: if you weigh more than about 150 lbs in gear, the stock spring is too soft. And really, that weight is being generous. The pain you're feeling on large bumps is the bike plowing into the bump stop as it bottoms out. A heavier spring will fix this issue.
The damping is another matter altogether. Penske ran the shock on the dyno yesterday for us.
The results are interesting. Well, maybe not since the performance is identical to the R1. But either way, there are some points that are worth mentioning. We've found a lot of people 'feel' something makes a difference, but the data doesn't always support it. The placebo effect is real. Let this be our guide.
There's a lot of stuff to make you cross-eyed here, so bear with me. I've left the image at full resolution and quality, so feel free to click on the image to zoom in.
The range of adjustment is shown in the top/center. This highlights the range of adjustment you get and full open, full hard, and mid point on compression and rebound.
The graph immediate to the left (still on top) is our spec for the FZ-09. This shock dyno curve was chosen to highlight a known 'good'. Plus, the spring rate that shock was valved for is very similar to our target for an average weight FZ-10 rider.
The next row down shows runs to highlight the variance that each adjustment affords. Low speed compression on left, rebound on right.
The bottom three graphs show the high speed compression test. On the left, rebound was full soft, LSC was full hard. In center, both rebound and LSC were full hard. On right, both rebound and LSC were full soft.
First, take notice of the rebound test plot on the center right. For those who are unfamiliar with these graphs, the positive sloping lines are compression and the negative sloping lines are rebound. Since the rebound adjustment was varied with run (4 click increase per run), you'd expect to see some increase in rebound damping on those negatively sloped lines. However, you'll also notice that the compression curves varied as well. Why? Simple. The jet in the main piston effectively increases compression damping when rebound is increased. Conversely, compression damping is reduced as rebound is reduced. It's important to note that the rebound adjuster's effect on compression damping is actually greater than the LSC adjuster. It's hard to explain without showing the internals, but take my word for it. The numbers don't lie.
Note the HSC runs across the bottom. You'll see that the individual runs overlap on each sheet (six runs in total). This is because the HSC adjuster doesn't actually do anything in the speed ranges we're able to measure. As mentioned above, the rebound and LSC adjustments have a larger effect.
Now, divert your gaze from the shape of the curves to the actual values at various shaft speeds. You'll notice that the overall range of adjustment is limited and the magnitude is substantially less than the FZ-09 control shock.
Blah, blah, blah...are we done here? The take away is this:
Spring - a bit too soft for most riders. Rebound - sufficient range, but tied to the compression circuit. High speed compression - minimal/no effect. Low speed compression - works, but is overshadowed by the rebound adjustment.
Re-springing and revalving isn't out of the question, but we're still limited by the design of this shock. The relationship between rebound and compression won't go away without substantial modifications.
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 19:50:18 GMT -7
Did some parts bin jockeying last week. First order of business was to try out the R1's axle sliders. Figured it was an easy swap considering the R1 and FZ-10 use the same axles. Success!
As you can see, the standard spools are also a direct fit (no surprises there).
Tried to assemble the standard R1 frame sliders, but the pucks interfered with the bodywork. However, the standard puck we used on the FZ-09 and FZ-07 works perfectly. Working with Woodcraft to pull a part number and get some kits boxed up and ready to go.
Next up was to try the R1's engine covers...
The other side wasn't so fortunate...
Didn't grab a shot to show it, but the R1 cover is about 13 mm too shallow. Apparently, the extra flywheel mass we kept reading about was added onto the actual flywheel. Surprising or not, this necessitated a deeper cover. Working with Eric Wood at Woodcraft to figure out a work-around. Have two good options on the table to make this happen pretty quickly, so stayed tuned.
Except for the LH stator cover, things never go this easily. Thank God Yamaha really did just convert an R1 for us. Makes our jobs easier!
As we get part numbers pulled, we'll add these parts to our web store. Stay tuned to the forum for a group buy or two to kick things off.
On another side note, tried to install the Yoshimura FZ-09 fender eliminator. It looked sooo close. I'm told that close only matters in horseshoes and hand grenades. A shame, because the Yosh kit is really quite top notch. Great light, adjustable signal mounts (and removable!), and perfect fitment. I spoke with Yosh last week and they should have something soon. If that doesn't work out, Stoltec will make one.
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 19:51:31 GMT -7
We were fortunate that the R1 frame slider bases fit around the FZ-10 side panels. Equally as fortunate that the other Woodcraft kits we have on the shelf were able to be cannibalized to make this work. I plan to touch base with those guys today and see how long we're looking to get some kits boxed up. I am envisioning a pre-order / group buy for some spools, axle, and frame sliders. We'll follow up with another one for the engine covers once the LH side is done.
Not sure about the clutch, honestly. The stock cover is fairly well protected between the ignition cover and frame slider. Now shown in the picture below is the factory rearset, which although it has a folding peg, will take some of the abuse in a fall. A rigid peg should absolutely work with the other two to protect the clutch. Until someone crashes with these bits and proves me wrong...
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 19:52:51 GMT -7
The thread got quiet, but there has been plenty of action to report out on. Took some time off with the family to hang out at the Jersey shore for a week (no, Snookie wasn't there), so that delayed this progress report. But without further ado:
Stainless Steel Brake Lines No pictures to show and tell quite yet - still tweaking a couple fittings and hose lengths/routes. What we hope to be the final prototype should be here by Friday. But, what I'll say:
1. Stock lines are a mix of hard steel lines and soft rubber lines. We're going to replace the hard lines throughout. A bit of work up front, but a cleaner install in the end. Plus, it'll save the customer money. 2. Stock lines have 6 flare fittings due to the hard lines. We were able to cut the final count in half down to 3. Fewer potential leak points are a good thing - and these are readily accessible instead of buried under the tank! 3. Net weight savings are in the 1.2-1.3 lb range. Not bad for just a line swap!
Pictures to follow during the next progress report - but we're getting very close to being done. Oh, and a friendly public service announcement - if/when you do this swap, do yourself a favor and just remove the radiator. It isn't that much work, and you'll thank me later. Those radiator fins are the most delicate I've laid my hands on. Good Lord...
Suspension Version 2 of the rear shock should be back by the end of the week. We may need to make another final tweak to the layout because the R1 has more tool access around the shock (the FZ-10's passenger pegs are closer to the shock than on the R1). The bike has been down in pieces for the better part of 3 weeks while we sort some things out, so regrettably, no ride reports - yet. Stay tuned.
Stator Cover As you may recall from an earlier post in this thread, the FZ-10 has a larger flywheel and a different stator than the R1. As such, the FZ-10 requires a taller stator cover. So unfortunately, this necessitates a new design. Unless of course you're man enough to retrofit the R1's stator and flywheel - I'm quietly trying to talk myself out of ruining the FZ by trying this...
Turns out that adding a perimeter spacer to raise the cover or adding more material to cover will price this thing WAY out of the market. Therefore, Eric @ Woodcraft and I have been going back and forth on the right path forward. Right now, we're looking at this:
Although it's not as bullet proof as the R1's billet aluminum cover, there are some positives to this. First, it's going to cost much less money. Like, a lot less. Second, installation won't require removing the stator cover. Third, repairing crash damage won't require removing the stator cover. Not that removing the cover is a particularly difficult task, but why sign up for more work that is necessary.
We utilized a similar design on the FZ-09 - and yes, we've crash tested it. It worked flawlessly.
Here is an overlay of Woodcraft's current R1 rearset on the FZ-10:
As you can see, the FZ's foot pegs are lower - much lower than the R1's aftermarket kit. About 2" lower and 5/8" back in the lowest position. In my opinion, this is going to be too aggressive the typical FZ-10 owner. The comfort of the bike is a major appeal, so detracting from that would seem to be a major misstep. Correct me if you disagree.
That said, this is the current design:
It's hard to tell what changed based on that view alone, but the new low position is about .75" higher and .625" back when compared to stock. As of today, the pegs can be adjusted 1.5" higher (from the low position) to answer your canyon carving or track day needs.
We're working on getting some parts printed within the next couple weeks so we can see how it all feels. My gut says 0.75" higher in the lowest position will be OK on this bike since there is a lot of leg room.
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 19:54:55 GMT -7
That's right...the 2015-2016 R1 Nissan 16 mm radial master cylinder works with the line kit. Making a minor adjustment to the top line with a new fitting and a different hose length. But much to my surprise, we were able to re-use the line! Pretty cool considering that you can upgrade the lines now and retrofit the radial m/c down the road when funds exist. No need to buy a new line and remove anything under the tank!
We don't have any of the 09-14 R1 Brembo units here at the moment, but this picture shows approximately where the line would mount. Again, this kit should perfectly for that m/c! Will test-fit the switch when the arrive back in stock...
How about that switch? Well, good news again: it fits! Still waiting on a lever to be 100% sure everything aligns and functions properly, but it looks like we're a go.
Here's a view from the cockpit showing the line and harness. The switch is oriented 90 degrees from it's factory location, so the harness loses some slack. However, there is enough before the wire clamp that you can redistribute the wiring a bit. No binding from lock to lock.
Again, this brake line here has a different m/c fitting and line length up top so the production kits are going to look a little better up top!
You'll notice that the grommet needs to be removed from the factory throttle cable clip. It can be slid down to protect the hose from chafing against the triple (though, honestly, this particular line doesn't move or flex up there).
All in all, very thrilled about this. You guys won't have to buy more lines as you upgrade and we won't have to keep working on line kits! The revised lines should be installed today, so God willing, a test ride this weekend...
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 19:56:38 GMT -7
Took a moment to fix a personal gripe I had with the bike while the brake lines were being prototyped - those.damn.passenger.pegs. Seriously, I'd hit my size 46 boot on them during every ride. No exaggeration. Fortunately, a very easy fix. One look at this bike and my wife swore she'd never ride on the back. "Mumble, grumble, mumble, grumble. Fine."
Realistically, you didn't come here to hear about plastic trim panels. Onto the main course - brake lines!
As I mentioned earlier (I think):
1. Reduced flare fittings from 6 to 3 for fewer leak points.
2. Replaces ALL factory lines including hard steel lines.
3. Saves about 1.3 lbs over the factory kit.
4. Pricing will be in the mid $200's once all is said and done.
Bleeding the lines was 'fun'. And by 'fun' I mean the kind of fun you'd expect by lighting your hair on the fire. Trust me, I'm bald for a reason. You WILL need a good vacuum bleeder to get the fluid moving. I highly recommend a pneumatic unit in place of the hand-held Mity Vac. Even so, it took a lot of work to get the fluid through the lines. Speed Bleeders help, a lot. In fact, after a solid bleed, the front lever was still baby-bottom soft. I was concerned that air was trapped in the ABS unit and a trip to the Yamaha Diagnostic Tool was required. Turns out that the fix was as easy as the tried and true zip tie around the lever overnight trick. Of course, if you want to get the old fluid out of the ABS unit for a proper bleed (i.e. when the fluid is old), you'll need to cycle the ABS unit. I'll let you figure out how best to do that - I won't be blamed for your red neck tendencies.
While we were at it, the stock Toyo HH pads were replaced with a fresh set of CL C60's. These are a 'Race Only' pad that was intended to be used at Pocono last weekend. That never happened, so they were bedded in on the street. After about 140 miles, they've come into their own. Great feel and modulation. Though to be honest, it's been a comfortable 85-90 degrees here recently. These might not work well in the cold or wet. Buyer beware...
Yeah, Nick. How do the lines feel? Do they fix the braking deficiencies?
Honestly - yes. I am a terrible salesman and hate to peddle a product (isn't it ironic?). Most of you have experienced the benefits of braided SS lines before, so you know the kind of improvement that can be had. This bike has a lot of line, so reinforcing the hose makes a very noticeable difference.
And while I'm being truthful, I have to say that if I weren't in the business of trying things out for the hell of it, I'd probably stop here with the stock master cylinder. Will a radial master cylinder improve things further? Even without riding with it yet, I will go on record with a 'yes'. There is no replacement for brake feel, and radial m/c's are where it's at. But that said, this current setup stops with authority. To the point that I had to increase the compression damping at the fork. Sure, the pads are playing a role here. But bottom line, this (to me) is how the bike should have been delivered. Are you listening Yamaha? Stop being cheap and modify the R1's stock ss lines to work with the higher handlebars for 2018!
Still sorting out the final details with Spiegler on the install instructions, part numbers, etc. Hoping to have them up on the site by the end of the week. Stay tuned for a package deal with pads, too...
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 19:58:06 GMT -7
The past few weeks have been insanely busy. That's a good thing, but a vacation would be lovely. My wife and I are expecting our second child very soon, so I've been burning it at both ends trying to keep things moving along. The only vacation I'll have will be with a sleeping/pooping/crying infant. But, enough about kids. You came to this thread to get away from your kids, so without further ado...
Fitted up the prototype stator cover. All is well, which really isn't surprising. Next step will be production!
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 19:59:33 GMT -7
I like it... Congrats on the upcoming baby
I'll let you know in a week or two if congrats or condolences are in order, lol. Kidding! Sorta...
Had some more fun with plastic:
No issues with flipping the linkage on the shift shaft for GP shifting.
The other side was printed before we incorporated a couple changes to clean up the heel guard mounting. Be that as it may, here it is:
Fits well, with one <ahem> minor interference.
Who needs a rear brake, anyway? Good thing printing plastic is cheap. But hey, this is why you prototype first!
As they sit now, each peg is about 0.787" (20 mm) inboard of the OE pegs. Lowest position is about 0.75" (~19 mm) higher than the stock peg position. I found the stock pegs to be ultra comfortable for my 31" inseam. I haven't taken any 1,000 mile tours on it, but I've never had the slightest hint of discomfort. All that is to say that these pegs are definitely noticeable. Not in a terrible Daytona 675 sort of way, but in a way that is different than stock. Still quite comfortable for the sport bike, though.
If you're looking for more ground clearance, look no further! If you want ground clearance and comfort, I'd recommend a taller seat for those longer rides. Alternatively, you can bring a friend to help lower the seat height:
or invest in some taller shoes. Something like these would be rather fetching:
Stay tuned for updates when we get a new brake lever design...
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 20:00:19 GMT -7
Final update for today. Installed the R1 Nissin master cylinder a little of a week ago.
This is the stock master cylinder from the 2015-2016 R1. 5/8" (15.875 mm) bore. The stock FZ-10 bore is 15 mm, so the R1 master has about 5.8% less hydraulic leverage. This means you'll need to apply 5.8% more force at the lever to generate the same line pressure. However, it also means the lever needs to move 5.8% approximately less to displace the same volume. The pivot/fulcrum distance is identical to that or the OE master. Most importantly, this master cylinder is designed for ABS brake systems, so it can handle the ABS pump kickback. Be careful using a standard master cylinder...YMMV!
Technobabble aside, the brakes are WONDERFUL! I used every bb code possible, because the final product is nothing short of amazing. The R1 master cylinder took up quite a bit of slop before the pressure started to build, and the SS lines firmed up the lever while the pressure continued to build as the lever was squeezed. Combined, the brakes are finally superbike-able. Feel is wonderful. If I'm being honest, I prefer the feel of a Brembo RCS, but on the street, we're really splitting hairs. Considering this costs about 1/3 of the Brembo, it's an amazing value. Get one. Run - don't walk!
As I alluded to in an earlier post, I'm running a set of CL C60 pads. These are a race only compound and work brilliantly from about 100 mph. Great bite and feel, especially when warm. No doubt, these would be at home on the track. I'd like to try them back to back with the venerable Vesrah RJL. All that aside, I'm planning the next pad selection. They don't have a lot of initial bite, especially when cold. This shouldn't come as a surprise. But coupled with the radial, the initial bite is a bit wooden. You really need speed/heat to awaken the beast. Once the beast is provoked, the bike stops in a hurry, though!
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 20:01:53 GMT -7
I don't have a good status on the rearsets or side cover, yet. Eric @ Woodcraft was out of the office to take care of some personal matters for a week or so, the races at NJMP came into play, and Stoltec has been running low on support these days (our second child - a daughter - was born a week ago). However, we're moving right into production on the cover. For the rearsets...need to try out a new brake pedal design.
In other news, we've made some great progress on the rear suspension. It's been a real uphill battle. Well over 40 hours of time and a couple thousand bucks later, things are starting to gel. I won't rehash it all here since we have a dedicated thread, but feel free to ask any questions.
I was able to sneak a few short rides in yesterday and today...damn - feels good!
Also, bedded in a new set of pads. Took off the CL C60's and moved to their 'street' pad, the XBK5. The C60 was great once heated up, but cold bite left a lot to be desired; in the rain, they were downright scar! I've used the XBK5's before and was pretty pleased on the road. So it was no great surprise that they worked out pretty well. GREAT initial bite and a nice linear progression. As a reminder, you can add these pads to any brake line order you place with us. We're working on the site to add more pad choices (with and without line purchase), so stay tuned.
In that same vein, several people have emailed or PM'd about what we're using the mount the reservoir for the radial master cylinder. Ask and ye shall receive:
Also, note that we retained the usage of the stock mirror with the Brembo perch clamp. This properly threaded (LH threads) and works perfectly with the Nissin master cylinder. We're using the Woodcraft universal reservoir mount and an LSL reservoir (both are available on our site). However, while not on the site (yet), but we're going to have the Brembo perch clamp, Brembo reservoir, and mounting hardware available soon. All in, these components will save you some money over the stock Yamaha parts and retain your stock mirrors. Stay tuned for availability updates!
In other other news, wired up the bike for easy bike-side flashing. Not that this bike's ECU is hard to get to, but the port conveniently located under the seat makes quick changes much more palatable. Have 2 Wheel Dyno Works' file ready to go, but was waiting to get the suspension in a state of functionality I could live with. Will be doing some rideability tweaks for Nels, so can only focus on one area of development at a time. Definitely more to cover on this as time goes on.
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 20:03:49 GMT -7
Tipped it over on the side of the road.
Idiot rider forgets to zip pocket after stopping. Galaxy S7 ejects from pocket on mountain road at 55 mph. Said idiot rider rushes to get phone from traffic without properly shoring up kickstand on a hill. Bike rolls off sidestand in a spectacular fashion as idiot rider looks both ways to cross road.
Incidentally, the phone, which was nicely secured in its Otterbox case in the road decided to eject a secondtime when a car ran it over. Thank God the phone still works. Only one small hairline crack in the rear glass.
But hey - at least we know the frame sliders work as advertised!
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 20:05:44 GMT -7
In other news...
Spent some time today working out details of our upcoming radial master cylinder retrofit kit. I discovered an area of concern for anyone running or planning to run the R1 Nissin radial master cylinder. Since this bike has cruise control, the brake switch is a very expensive dual stage switch (as some of you already know from your lever trial and error). The first stage disables the cruise control and the second stage activates the brake light. This was done so that the rider could disable the cruise control with a light touch of the lever WITHOUT activating the brake light. Pretty straight-forward, except what this means to us...
The switch Yamaha uses requires a specific throw between stages. There isn't enough room mechanically (or possibly electrically?) to keep those two triggers very close to one another. In the case of this bike, the second stage was triggered pretty deep into the master cylinder's pressure region. In other words, the brakes were on but the tail light was not. Pretty lousy situation to be in if you're trail braking - your tail light won't come on to alert that texting minivan driver that you're slowing down!!
The nature of this switch, and the cruise control itself, forms my theory for why Yamaha stuck us with such a lousy cross pump master cylinder. All that 'mush' meant that there was absolutely no worry that the brake light was on well before meaningful deceleration was taking place. In the case of the much less sloppy R1 radial unit, the opposite is true. The R1 doesn't have cruise control and uses a different switch. We can't blame this on the R1 master cylinder or the lever. It lies purely with our cruise control.
My work around, until something better can be devised, was to lightly file away the tip of the nub on the switch's plunger. Doing so causes the switch to trigger sooner (both stages). Be warned, though: it doesn't take much to 'fix' the problem. If you go too far, the first stage of the switch (cruise control deactivation) will always be triggered and the cruise won't work. There is a bit of slop in the switch's mounting hole to remedy an overzealous file hand, but don't count on it saving your ass or your $95 switch. DAMHIK. But, with a little patience, you can keep the cruise control active and bring the brake light activation to the beginning of the pressure region. Hope this helps someone...pass it along!
Bottom line for those who don't like to read: if you have an R1 master cylinder, re-read the above paragraphs!
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 20:06:50 GMT -7
Really nice build man looking great so far can't wait to see how the flash turns out. I'm picking my MT-10 up this week and i can't wait. Anyway how's the progress going? Also any idea when the rear sets will be available?
Sorry for not getting back on this thread sooner. I'll spare you the details, but I had a little bout of health issues that put me on my ass a few weeks back. Coupled with a toddler, a newborn, and regular workload, I was pressed hard to find time to do anything useful on the web. Tough couple weeks which really took the wind out of my sails. However, that doesn't mean things were idle.
As far as the rearsets, they are on schedule to be ready about the same time as the LH side engine protector - right around the end of this month. I'll be sure to keep this thread apprised of updates.
Speaking of which...
Removed the LSL brake fluid reservoir to test fit a new product we've added to inventory:
The Brembo reservoir kit is a nice high quality alternative, and at a lower cost. If the look doesn't offend, it's a solid solution. The Brembo-supplied clamps don't work with the Nissin barbed fittings, but the factory Yamaha clamps do. Also, you'll notice that we're using a threaded clamp for the mirror perch. The color is ever so slightly off from the Nissin, but honestly, you'd have to look for it to notice. No need to ditch the factory style mirrors (which I rather enjoy).
Both products will be part of a radial master cylinder bundle...available as soon as we're able!
On a related note, I'll need to do some tweaking on the brake switch. The aforementioned modification to the switch's plunger got the brake light working properly. However, the cruise control deactivation point is precariously close to the end of the lever travel. As such, the cruise control hasn't been working. A shame that will need to be addressed at a later date - because every bike should have cruise control these days!
In other news, fit the same Custom LED tail light that we fitted to our old FZ-09. The connectors are different, but the fit/form/function is the same. Normally, I'm not a fan of integrated tail lights. I've often found that the LED brightness is lacking and that the signals are too hard to differentiate from one another (or the tail/brake lights). Not the case with the Custom LED tail light. The width on the stock tail light assembly provides good separation from left to right, and the LED array is extraordinarily bright. Follow behind one of these bad boys and you'll be sold. The turn signals are bright and very distinct. Even with the brake light on. Plus, having an integral brake light modulator is tidy. I spend some time in traffic and I love the extra attention it brings.
Of course, the integrated tail light left a few holes where the stock signals used to be. Seemed like a good time to go with another great product: Yoshimura's fender eliminator. I like this kit for a few reasons. First, the quality is excellent. Sounds silly for a bracket, but the whole kit is top notch...especially the billet light assembly that other kits don't include. Second, the turn signal mounts are removeable to keep an ultra clean look when they are jettisoned for an integrated tail light. Third, it's made in the USA.
And as a bonus, you'll get to pick rocks off your seat and wear the cruddy rain stripe up your bike with price!
While the tail section was apart for the tail light and fender eliminator, the stock Yuasa battery was replaced with one of our Antigravity batteries. We've been using these for years and love them dearly. Not only do they save quite a bit of weight (4.972 lbs to be exact), but they hold their charge for up to a year. No need to worry about hooking up to a tender during the colder months when the bike isn't ridden often. Sadly, our FZ-09 sat for 9 months last year...but the battery held strong and started up eagerly as if it was just parked a few minutes prior.
This particular case is the same size as the stock battery, so no need to figure out how to keep a smaller battery in place. The terminal orientation is slightly different, so you'll need to bend one of the cable terminals. Easy peasy. And of course, in stock: Antigravity YTZ10 Lithium Nanophosphate Battery
Stay tuned for updates. Will be getting caught up on other progress over the course of the next several days.
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 20:08:02 GMT -7
Whilst working on the suspension, I decided it was time to sort out the jerky fueling (see what I did there? You guys are rubbing off on the Yank)...
Quite honestly, I got to a point where the overall throttle response and fuel delivery seemed to have degraded. This may be purely in my head, or perhaps the 'honeymoon' was over. Either way, as the 3,000 mile mark crept up and passed, I was less than thrilled with the smoothness. Especially while in traffic. The off-throttle response was just too abrupt and felt like there was 8 feet of chain slack. I'm exaggerating, but all this is to say that I was at the point where the throttle needed to be smoother. A and B modes never did it for me for anything more than a few miles. So, it lived in STD mode. Until now.
Nels @ 2 Wheel Dyno Works sent his file over quite a few weeks ago, but I wanted to wait until Flash Tune sorted out the cruise control bugs. Then, things got busy and I got a bit lazy. Based on everyone's initial responses, I was pretty sure things were going to be amazing. So where they?
Yes and no.
For starters, the 'yes'. Simply put, the bike rips now. I mean it REALLY rips. Let me be clear: the bike was always fast. Definitely faster than I'll ever need on any road - or track, for that matter. But now? It'll stretch your arms out and gobble up sections of road faster than your newborn goes through diapers. Or, ours anyway. But this isn't surprising after looking at the factory maps. I mean, no full throttle outside of 8,000-10,000 RPM? Come on Yamaha...what gives. Evidently, public safety. Now that the throttle restrictions are removed, you must remember to have the bike pointed in the proper direction when you twist the go stick! Also of note: decel sounds a little meatier, and truth be told, I suspect acceleration does, too. Again, could be completely in my head...but that's my story and I'm sticking to it. It sounds good...especially the decel pops that weren't there before. I know, I know. Say what you want. But I feel a bit like Sébastien Loeb cranking through the hills. Good stuff.
Nels did a great job on the fuel delivery and timing. I'll spare the details, but he did quite a bit of modification to the baseline Flash Tune maps. More fuel and less timing across much of the map. Interestingly, the baseline Flast Tune map dynos the same as the Graves map. No lean spots, no surging. Just clean power delivery.
Now, about the 'no' part of the 'yes and no' answer. I still felt like the off-on-off throttle transition was too abrupt. In fact, I dare say it was a bit worse than the factory STD map. Actually, I can promise it was more abrupt - a simple toggle of the mode switch is all that's needed to confirm. Sadly, the engine braking was still a bit too strong and abrupt for my liking. Despite being smoother, it was just a lot to manage when trail braking deep into a blind corner loaded with bumps and ripples. So, I set to fixing it.
I've been through 5 revisions over the past week and plan to play with revision 6 tomorrow. First order of business was to scour the maps and look for inconsistencies. Anyone who's checked the maps knows that there are some obvious Easter eggs in there that aren't doing us any favors. I find it hard to believe that Yamaha let these go. I suspect they were remnants of the initial data dump when reading the ECU, but that is strictly an unqualified guess. Let's call it a rumor, but don't believe everything you read on the internet. Either way, fixing those errant values did help in a few areas, but not enough to make a marked improvement.
Revisions 2-5 focused on refining the throttle maps. Which for reference, look like this:
Some initial comments which most of you will have instantly picked up on:
1. These curves are taken from the 8,000-10,000 RPM region. Outside that region, the maps are extremely limited and never achieve WOT. 2. The Flash Tune B mode throttle curve is identical to the factory Yamaha B mode. 3. The STD mode looks like hell, despite being the most manageable of the bunch.
Despite all those dips and valleys in the STD mode, the important area is down low where the throttle tip-in matters:
As you can see, there is a somewhat sudden throttle opening. The rate of opening varies by mode. Based on lessons learned from the FZ-09, some smoothing down low makes a difference:
You may be wondering why the tip-in wasn't smoothed out even further. Short answer is that this was the best we can do with the FT-ECU software. There's a limit to what you can do, but graph be damned, this feels great. The software is still more powerful today than it was back in the day when we did FZ-09 reflashing. Trail braking is now longer a hurky jerky affair when working the throttle. Honestly, it works pretty good. Not quite as good as the proverbial carburetor, but its not bad at all.
However, I still found engine braking to be a bit too abrupt. It felt like the brakes were connected to the throttle return cable. Every time the throttle was rolled off, the bike decelerated with authority. It must have been competing with the throttle's pull cable for best in show. I set about modifying the decel throttle maps, but quickly learned that Flash Tune locked those cells. Apparently, they feel pretty strongly that those tables are too dangerous for the average consumer to play with. So, you can add engine braking...but you can't remove it. A real shame, because older versions of the software allowed these changes - which can really alter the bike's personality. Still working with FT to gain full access to these values, but in the meantime, I set about remapping the throttle curve. Read: I took some of the map's chutzpah out of it. My goal was to soften the climb, which would also have the affect of soften the descent. Smoother twist 'up', smoother action 'down'.
Given the rough STD mapping, I set out righting Yamaha's wrongs. I always felt the STD mode was a little too soft (when compared to the B mode), so I spiced it up a bit. Just a bit. Looks like this now:
Note that this graph only shows the 5-60% range. Above 60, it follows the B mode map...
I'm pleased...no - ecstatic - to report that the changes have been pretty substantial every step of the way! As good as the Flash Tune throttle mapping felt, it still bucked me out of the seat over unexpected bumps in the road. Not any more. It's very predictable and manageable, and possesses a level of refinement that just wasn't there in the Yamaha map. I can honestly say that aside from possibly tweaking the decel tables a bit (if we can), this is where I'll leave it. It's so good, there is nothing else to add or modify.
In the essence of full disclosure, I nearly forgot one eenie weenie teenie detail: the bike is thirstier now (who knew that was possible?). Over the past three tanks, I've logged about a 10% drop in fuel economy on the highway. Next mod: retrofitting an R1200GSA fuel tank.
Until then, I'll happily twist and grin from ear to ear!
Post by stoltecmoto on Dec 11, 2016 20:08:55 GMT -7
Fitted the Yamaha accessory 'Comfort' seat.
I was amazed when the box showed up. Not as heavy as I expected! I had to do something about the seat, so this is the first attempt at fixing what has turned into the worst seat I've had the pleasure of bruising my tookus on. I've owned bikes with great stock seats. And others less so. Had Corbin, Sargent, and various gel seats. I'd say my personal 'take rate' for aftermarket seats is just about 50% of the time. The FZ-10 is DEFINITELY one of them, however. I'm not sure if the seat broke in or if the seat broke my bottom, but the first ~2,000 miles weren't sooo bad. But now? Forget it. I can't ride an hour without my hips digging into the seat and causing immense pain. Maybe I need to eat more pumpkin pie this year...
I didn't break out the level and string bobs to measure the seat heights, so take these measurements for what they are: rough approximations. Also, the bike was up on a Woodcraft rear stand in these photos, so the rear wheel is off the ground. Therefore, these are NOT actual seat heights!
The camera levels aren't consistent from photo to photo (sorry!), but I approximate a 0.75" (19 mm) seat height increase. This will actually be nice once the Woodcraft rear sets arrive here toward the end of this month.
The seat looks nice with the white stitching and the embossed logo is a nice touch. I think the pillion section is a little too tall looking to fit into the tail section of the bike, but I'm not upset with it. I value the scoop in the seat to keep my behind locked in place when the front wheel is skimming the earth.
Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. Was out trail riding Friday on the KTM and had family obligations that kept me from riding over the weekend. I'll so some testing tomorrow.
stealthunion: I am interested in the OEM bar if you still have them. How much shipped to Seattle, WA? Thanks!
Feb 9, 2019 13:01:12 GMT -7
tupphead: Jesus I'll get it right eventually BSD Performance
Jan 18, 2019 11:14:35 GMT -7
tupphead: I meant BAD Performance in Peterborough which is closer forme
Jan 18, 2019 11:10:49 GMT -7
tupphead: Thanks for the link exuptoy It's a good vid, but Bristol is a bit of a treck for me.
Jan 18, 2019 11:07:49 GMT -7
joeysako: Hey guys! I bought my '17 FZ-10 a little over a week ago. Brand new with "0" miles. I am coming from an 09 R1 and I still ride an 07 Warrior. I do love my Yamahas First upgrade will be a 2wheeldyno ECU flash and not sure which pipe....
Jan 17, 2019 5:11:51 GMT -7
miel12: Hello guys gonna get the mt10 soon . Just dropped by to say hello and join the community
Dec 9, 2018 14:04:22 GMT -7
isaac: New member, new listing... PM or view my latest post in the sale thread for details
Nov 24, 2018 20:22:57 GMT -7
exuptoy: 600 mile service now done woohoo
Nov 14, 2018 6:27:13 GMT -7
squid4life: Dammit....just the story of my life....always Late..
Nov 9, 2018 15:59:57 GMT -7
squid4life: Do you still have the bottom piece(the one that covers the key hole)? Also i will like the plate light...if so lmk..
Nov 9, 2018 15:57:25 GMT -7
squid4life: Are you still selling the bike?
Nov 3, 2018 3:06:18 GMT -7
dharma54: Greetings to all, hope everyone is healthy and happy !
Nov 2, 2018 13:00:59 GMT -7
exuptoy: Hi guys, newbie here from the uk. Just felt I had to register as I have today fitted the Leo to my 2018 10. Awesome sound on it but still a little loud with my Scorpion RP1-GP. Hope you guys like it.
Oct 29, 2018 12:27:57 GMT -7