torquey
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Post by torquey on Jun 14, 2022 9:48:57 GMT -7
Any and all suggestions including having myself check into a clinic are all appreciated!:
My 2017 FZ-10 when not ridden is connected to a Battery Tender, yet the original battery was too weak to start the bike the other day after about 6 years of ownership.
I purchased a replacement battery and at first thought that the battery terminals on the new battery were reversed with the + terminal on the LEFT and the - terminal on the RIGHT since my negative cable would not come close to reaching the - terminal.
HOWEVER, I noticed that the original battery is configured the same exact way with the + on the left, with the + on the clutch side of the bike and the negative on the throttle side when installed.
There is NO WAY that the cables can reach the properly indicated terminals, causing me to think that the original battery was hooked up backwards from the factory all these years. Yet, would not that have shorted everything out? When I tried to reconnect the new battery the way the old one came out, I got a small amount of sparking and a sound that seemed like the fuel pump but continued for 10 to 15 seconds so I disconnected everything.
The diagram in the owners manual shows the positive terminal wire on the right in the same way that the cables "want" to go on my bike.
As far as connecting and disconnecting a battery, I have Googled this and also watched motorcycle videos which provided conflicting information.. PLUS, with me not really understanding all of the above, I am even more confused about connecting and disconnecting them properly. This is after owning 7 motorcycles and decades of riding.
Is it that I need my own head bolts retorqued???
Thank you VERY MUCH!!!
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Post by mt10orc on Jun 14, 2022 13:00:17 GMT -7
So is this what your configuration looks like? Mind you this is a US model 2020. Hooking up battery backwards will blow fuses and shouldn’t operate. Positive side should always have a cover over connection unless it was modified.
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Post by RedAndBlack on Jun 14, 2022 16:59:44 GMT -7
See the above picture. The battery does not sit upright. You lay it down on its back positive to positive negative to negative. Do not under any circumstances cross connect them.
Post a picture of what's going on. Left and right is subjective. I usually like to use clutch side and brake side since thats universal.
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torquey
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Post by torquey on Jun 14, 2022 17:37:15 GMT -7
Thank you SO VERY MUCH mt10orc for posting that photo!! It has uncovered what is certain to be, not only on THIS forum, but including every MC forum past, present, and future, the DUMBEST possible mistake anyone could ever make!!
Of course your photo looked precisely like my US model 10. HOWEVER, (and this takes guts to admit publicly), I had the battery flipped 90 degrees toward the front! This put the terminals out of reach if the polarity was correct! The only possible way it would fit properly so flipped would be to now turn the battery completely around so that the terminals would reach perfectly, yet putting the now reversed battery terminals closest to the cables!!! Can you see what I am referring to?
As absolutely ridiculous as this sounds, it was driving me totally nuts and only the decal on your battery gave it away. OF COURSE, it HAD to be this way! I was thinking of the typical car battery that fits more upright and should not be placed horizontally. That is the problem I suppose with removing a battery while waiting several days for another to arrive.
Therefore, we were BOTH correct:
1. Your picture showed the proper orientation
2. I do indeed need my own head blots retorqued...
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torquey
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Post by torquey on Jun 14, 2022 17:39:56 GMT -7
See the above picture. The battery does not sit upright. You lay it down on its back positive to positive negative to negative. Do not under any circumstances cross connect them. Post a picture of what's going on. Left and right is subjective. I usually like to use clutch side and brake side since thats universal. BINGO, Red and Black! You can read my pitiful explanation where I acknowledge that I need my own head bolts retorqued!
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torquey
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Post by torquey on Jun 14, 2022 17:44:02 GMT -7
Many thanks to mt10orc and to RedAndBlack!
The battery which is fully charged is now installed properly but will (of course) not turn the bike on now. No functions, no dash. I tried replacing the 30 Amp fuse under the seat but that did nothing. I know FOR A FACT that crossed terminals occurred for several seconds.
I HOPE AND PRAY it's one of the fuses on the side of the bike underneath the fairing and that I didn't cook anything..... Tomorrow will tell.
Any ideas? Thanks again!
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kyle
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Post by kyle on Jun 14, 2022 19:02:04 GMT -7
Many thanks to mt10orc and to RedAndBlack! The battery which is fully charged is now installed properly but will (of course) not turn the bike on now. No functions, no dash. I tried replacing the 30 Amp fuse under the seat but that did nothing. I know FOR A FACT that crossed terminals occurred for several seconds. I HOPE AND PRAY it's one of the fuses on the side of the bike underneath the fairing and that I didn't cook anything..... Tomorrow will tell. Any ideas? Thanks again!Just to confirm, when you say "no functions, no dash"; do you mean nothing lights up at all? Or do you mean the bike just won't crank over? When you turn on the key at first, do you hear any sound at all? (fuel pump priming? On my fz8, you can hear the butterfly valves on the throttle bodies opening/closing... Will the brake lights work?) Regardless of your answers above, I will still recommend checking fuses. It's kind of a pain in the ass, but if you're comfortable getting in there, it's not rocket science. This guy did the same thing - fz10.org/thread/4350/solved-little-help-screwed-bikeHowever, in my experience, the dash would still turn on; the bike just wouldn't start... I hope your case is just another blown fuse. www.manualslib.com/manual/1287441/Yamaha-Mt-10.html?page=92Would you be able to send us a picture/take a video of the current setup? (Battery terminals, etc)
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Post by RedAndBlack on Jun 14, 2022 23:10:46 GMT -7
Gotta go through and check all the fuses and might need to replace battery And it's all good. I've had so many "duh" moments with bikes, I also question my intelligence sometimes. 😆
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torquey
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Post by torquey on Jun 15, 2022 5:27:32 GMT -7
Many thanks to mt10orc and to RedAndBlack! The battery which is fully charged is now installed properly but will (of course) not turn the bike on now. No functions, no dash. I tried replacing the 30 Amp fuse under the seat but that did nothing. I know FOR A FACT that crossed terminals occurred for several seconds. I HOPE AND PRAY it's one of the fuses on the side of the bike underneath the fairing and that I didn't cook anything..... Tomorrow will tell. Any ideas? Thanks again! Just to confirm, when you say "no functions, no dash"; do you mean nothing lights up at all? Or do you mean the bike just won't crank over? When you turn on the key at first, do you hear any sound at all? (fuel pump priming? On my fz8, you can hear the butterfly valves on the throttle bodies opening/closing... Will the brake lights work?) Regardless of your answers above, I will still recommend checking fuses. It's kind of a pain in the ass, but if you're comfortable getting in there, it's not rocket science. This guy did the same thing - fz10.org/thread/4350/solved-little-help-screwed-bikeHowever, in my experience, the dash would still turn on; the bike just wouldn't start... I hope your case is just another blown fuse. www.manualslib.com/manual/1287441/Yamaha-Mt-10.html?page=92Would you be able to send us a picture/take a video of the current setup? (Battery terminals, etc) Hi Kyle, and thanks for your response. Battery and cables are now (finally) correct. Talk about an inability to think outside the box. UGH! When the key is turned, I get nothing at all, no sound, no horn, no lights, no dash. I'm going to find those fuses and check them. Thank you also, for pointing out that previous thread; it is very much appreciated.
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torquey
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Post by torquey on Jun 15, 2022 5:30:47 GMT -7
Gotta go through and check all the fuses and might need to replace battery And it's all good. I've had so many "duh" moments with bikes, I also question my intelligence sometimes. 😆
Hi RedAndBlack. I'm certain that I couldn't beat you on the track but I am positively convinced that sadly, I've got you beat by miles in the "duh" moments category!!
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torquey
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Post by torquey on Jun 15, 2022 7:35:29 GMT -7
The 50 Amp main fuse is toast, which I could not see yesterday in the garage. I HOPE that's all it is...
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Post by willl84 on Jun 15, 2022 9:05:39 GMT -7
Another battery poster here had something else blow in addition to that - something stupid like the electronic throttle fuse or something lol
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Post by RedAndBlack on Jun 15, 2022 11:40:56 GMT -7
Op, I tagged you in the thread that Will mentioned. Hope that helps.
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torquey
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Post by torquey on Jun 15, 2022 12:11:20 GMT -7
Another battery poster here had something else blow in addition to that - something stupid like the electronic throttle fuse or something lol I'm gonna check them all if necessary, but I hope it's just this one!
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torquey
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Post by torquey on Jun 15, 2022 12:11:58 GMT -7
Op, I tagged you in the thread that Will mentioned. Hope that helps. When one is hopeless, EVERYTHING helps! THANK YOU!
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torquey
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Post by torquey on Jun 15, 2022 12:14:00 GMT -7
Another battery poster here had something else blow in addition to that - something stupid like the electronic throttle fuse or something lol Will, I'm gonna check them all if necessary, but I hope it's just this one! Thanks much!
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Post by mt10orc on Jun 15, 2022 13:13:36 GMT -7
See the above picture. The battery does not sit upright. You lay it down on its back positive to positive negative to negative. Do not under any circumstances cross connect them. Post a picture of what's going on. Left and right is subjective. I usually like to use clutch side and brake side since thats universal. BINGO, Red and Black! You can read my pitiful explanation where I acknowledge that I need my own head bolts retorqued! It’s cool man we all have or had those exact same moments one time or another. Like said above check continuity on all your fuses before firing up. Hope u have a multi meter or circuit tester.
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torquey
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Post by torquey on Jun 16, 2022 8:20:29 GMT -7
BINGO, Red and Black! You can read my pitiful explanation where I acknowledge that I need my own head bolts retorqued! It’s cool man we all have or had those exact same moments one time or another. Like said above check continuity on all your fuses before firing up. Hope u have a multi meter or circuit tester. Yeah, but MY moment was DEEP!! I've owned bikes for most of my life. Yet, due to constant battery tender usage, I believe that this is the only time I have changed a battery a bike, but still!! Use your head, man! That's what it's there for....
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torquey
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Post by torquey on Jun 16, 2022 16:29:49 GMT -7
Well folks, progress today but ultimately a hollow triumph:
Put the 50A Main fuse in, all functions came back including dash, signal lights, the works. Suited up, rolled her outside, cranked her over, idled for 2 to 3 seconds and dies. The battery has plenty of cranking power. I repeated this 3 or 4 times, so now when I get the chance (and I won't have one for about 3 days) I do need to pop off that side cover and look at the rest of the fuses. HOPEFULLY, it will be one or two of them.
Perhaps a fuel pump, something silly like a kickstand sensor, who knows? Perhaps you folks do. What would the most logical reason for this be? As always, thank you (plural)...
I am thinking it might be the same thing that kyle pointed out to me as happened in another thread: fz10.org/thread/4350/solved-little-help-screwed-bike
So I just installed a new battery incorrectly for about a second. I blew the main fuse. I replace it and when I put the key in, the screen looks normal but it won’t start. The engine tries to turn over, the new battery is strong, but it won’t actually run. It will put once or twice every couple of seconds. But that’s all I get.
I connected an engine code reader to it and I get 1 error code. P0638 Throttle Actuator control performance/range Bank 1.
Does anyone know hot to fix this. I’m hoping it’s just another fuse I need to replace.
I am pretty upset with myself for making such a boneheaded mistake. Was really looking forward to riding today.
It was a fuse! Looks like a lucked out. Thanks for the help guys. I circled in the picture. Fuse box on the right. Third fuse down. It’s the electronic throttle control, which made sense considering the code I was getting from the odb2. The spare came out of the fuse box on the left.
the bike was idling rough, but I cleared the code and it is running normal now.
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Post by willl84 on Jun 16, 2022 17:18:43 GMT -7
Yep, just like in that other thread - popped the ETV fuse that controls the electronic throttle. That's why you're getting a code for it.
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