[SOLVED] Replace Radiator Hose But What Tool ???

They are "Oetiker Ear" style clamps that need to be replaced upon removal. If I remember right, there is a tab on the side of the clamp that you can pry up with a screwdriver and that'll allow you to loosen up and unwind the clamp. However, this renders the clamp useless. 

If you buy a new OEM clamp, you just need to slip it over the hose before install and then crimp the bridge part of the clamp with a set of pliers to tighten it. There's a special set of pliers out there for these type of clamps (just google "Oetiker Ear Clamp Crimping Tool") but a standard set of pliers or Channellocks might get the job done if they are sized large enough grasp both ends of the bridge part of the clamp. 

Or, just buy a traditional style clamp where you tighten via a screwdriver. I have no idea what the benefits are of using one vs the other. 

You need a hosanator.

You can reuse the clamp if you are careful just widen the crimp part enough . Then you can get wire cutters that look like the tool above but should file down the cutting edges so you don't cut through the clamp if you don't want to wait for shipping. Or pex pipe crimp tool at a local home improve center not cheap.

I appreciate the input everyone. I took off the radiator hose clips and replaced them with adjustable hose clamps. The factory clips were failing to prevent fluid leak and needed replacing. The hoses were fine. Problem solved. Kinda went overboard and replaced the radiator hoses on both sides. (I noticed that the old hoses were still good after removal..no other way to know without removing). Oh well, less than $15 for the hoses. From there I did a full radiator flush. Worth it. For all those with questions regarding normal high temps for the FZ-10....the number is 226F. At 226F you're radiator fans should be going at full speed and cooling things back below this this temp. If the temp keeps rolling up despite the fans going, I'm almost 100% that your bike has air in the system that needs to be exspelled via the air bleed valve located at the 12 oclock position on the water pump cover. Wait for your bike to cool to around 140F...then open the air bleed valve slighty. You'll literally hear a hiss as the air escapes. Make sure you replace the volume of air expelled with the same volume of fluid. You'll see the fluid in the radiator has dropped. Just fill it back up. Then run the engine again up the 220F's where the fans kick in again. For my bike (and everyone's I would think), the max temp is roughly 226F before the cooling system kicks in and drops the temp. As long as your bike maxes out here, you're good. By maxes out, I mean MAX allowable operating temp and the cooling system should push that temp down into the lower 200's. If your bike's temp rolls into the 230F's turn off the engine....DO NOT turn off the power because you still want the radiator fans to assist in bringing down that high temp! This brings up an important point. Don't walk away from your bike when getting your radiator fluid in check. You need to monitor that temp like a hawk. It could overheat (most likely due to air in the system) when you walk off and you might seize your engine. Fun stuff...(sarcasm). That's pretty much it. 50/50 distilled and vinegar for the win! Good luck!

Side note: You could technically keep your radiator cap off and add this item (found on amazon.com). Look for: "No-Spill Coolant Funnel Kit": This will allow your radiator to burp the air during a radiator fluid change. This will bypass the inevitable step of having to purge the system of air because it will automatically allow the air to escape with the radiator being open to air (uncapped). Of course...make sure that you're fans have run during this time to ensure that the coolant system's pump has been activated and thus pushing liquid and air through the system. The air deep in the system will eventually make it to the uncapped radiator and escape leaving your cooling system air free.

RedAndBlack I'm with you on the temps of 230F. Hot days can and will drive temps up a bit more. For a typical "hot" day in San Diego, I wouldn't expect it to get above 226F unless one is really pushing it...and assuming no cooling system issues.