baker219
New Member
Posts: 2
Registered: Jun 27, 2020 6:22:48 GMT -7
|
Post by baker219 on Jul 1, 2020 13:20:08 GMT -7
Let me just start this post by saying I just got my 2019 MT-10 this year after having two BMW K1300S bikes and I love it! It's flipping awesome! Naturally I have started doing a bunch of modifications the latest of which is a Scorpion Serket exhaust. Not known for big power but about 400 dollars cheaper than either Akro or Austin Racing and I actually think it has great deep tone. As I understand it when you remove the factory cat the bike will run lean. So you either do an ECU flash or get a power commander or some other fuel management system. From all of my reading on this forum it sounds like I should have just gotten the ECU flashed... however I went with a Power Commander and Autotune, Which does not seem to be very popular on this forum. I can see why. To put it simply the "Eco" mode that comes on when you are just cruising really hates the autotune and the autotune hates the Eco mode. They seem to fight each other and the Autotune throws out ridiculous numbers for fuel trims. and in case anyone is wondering yes I have disabled the AIS system on the bike by simply plugging the AIS intake inside the airbox as recommended by a person on this forum and it seems to work great. The guys and Dynojet must know this because one of the base maps that you download does not have the power commander or the autotune doing anything in those lower rpm/throttle area's. However I have managed to get the cruising ranges and the overall personality of the bike to be much more smooth and friendly around town and it still rips when you get up to 5500 through the top end. I have not had the bike dynoed so I have no idea if it makes more or less power. It doesn't feel as if it makes less power or torque either way its still plenty fast for me. The autotune seems to work like a charm whenever you are out of the eco mode so I am happy with that. But this brings us to my actual question for anyone who is still reading this novel. If I were to somehow remove the factory oxygen sensors would that disable Eco mode in a way? Basically trick the ECU into thinking everything is normal and allowing the autotune to make adjustments and not fight it? That way I could allow my autotune to work her magic in all RPM ranges.
|
|
mrcdharwood
Full Member
Posts: 167
Likes: 93
Registered: Nov 4, 2017 1:39:49 GMT -7
|
Post by mrcdharwood on Jul 2, 2020 1:10:35 GMT -7
ECO mode. This is basically when you are under 5500 RPM. It denotes you are riding economically by not using as much fuel.
This is basically the rev limit of the closed loop part of the fuel map and the point where the EXUP opens.
Closed loop systems monitor an output and automatically adjust the inputs to keep said output constant.
So your fuel, air and revs are your inputs and the "map" has determined values for those at any given revs. Let's say the out put is to remain at 1. Any drift from 1 will see the air and fuel altered to ensure the reading at the O² sensors stays at 1. It does this many times a second. This is what is referred to as your closed loop map.
What a power commander cannot do is alter the fuelling in the closed loop part of the map with out being tricked. That is to fit an O² eliminator kit to trick the bike into seeing a constant at the sensors.
Before the power vision 3 Dyno jet themselves said they had not seen a steady set up on an MT10 that doesn't drift save for one bike. However they could not replicate that on any other machine. That's why most people avoid power commanders.
I am not familiar with auto tune but it seems that this replicates that trickery to get the bike to see a constant but a value is set by the user. This inturn allowing the PC to remap the closed loop part of the map. It sounds like the two are conflicting though.
In all honesty you'd be better removing it, selling it on and getting an ECU flash. It will save you time, probably money and make the bike so much more enjoyable.
|
|