Main fuse 50.0 A Headlight fuse 10.0 A Brake light fuse 1.0 A Signaling system fuse 7.5 A Ignition fuse 15.0 A Radiator fan motor fuse 15.0 A Sub radiator fan motor fuse 10.0 A Hazard fuse 7.5 A ABS ECU fuse 7.5 A Fuel injection system fuse 15.0 A ABS motor fuse 30.0 A ABS solenoid fuse 10.0 A Terminal fuse 1 2.0 A Cruise control fuse 1.0 A Backup fuse 7.5 A Electronic throttle valve fuse 7.5 A
Last Edit: Dec 30, 2017 23:12:11 GMT -7 by Cruizin
Post by daveinwoodland on Jun 15, 2017 20:26:19 GMT -7
There has been some discussion on the possiblity of errors in the manual regarding torque specs. Specifically when you are adjusting the chain. The rear axle specs state 190 NM and 137FTLBS which in itself is not accurate since 190 NM = 140.13680836263 FTLBS, not 137 as stated. This error alone is not a huge difference but it does make me question accuracy since other measurements converted from NM to FTLBS seems to be accurate except this one specific one.
To tell you the truth, I never use a TQ wrench on my front or rear axles. Just my opinion, but Ijust use common sense and tighten them. And recheck them in the garage as part of my normal "pre ride" inspections.
This has worked for me since 1978.
Then a few years ago I was working on bike projects with top notch bike shop here in Idaho, and their shop owner tightened up all the bike he worked by hand without a tq wrench too.
Then was talking to Jeff Slavens at Slavens racing, mechanic for Team KTM, Team Yamaha and many other top race teams, and he hand tightens those axle bolts too.
I do of course use a tq wrench for most engine bolts and such. But the problem with mass manufactured Japanese machines these days is just how cheap and soft bolts that they use. It's how they keep the price down, cheap ass bolts. I have seen so many broken bolts being extracted over the years, it's crazy.
You don't have to use a tq wrench on everything. And you should be checking your axle bolts and fork bolts by simple hand wrench test on pre ride inspections anyways. Just a quick check on ea axle and fork bolt, not to tourque it down, just a quick check. If it ain't loose, you are ok.
Hey Cruizin, that link is not working anymore. Would you mind checking what's wrong? It'd be nice to quickly access common torque values rather than having to search the service manual up and down for them. Many thanks.
And on the rear axle bolt, which is exactly what I need right now, I was surprised to see 137 (or 140) ft/lbs for this bike. It's A LOT of torque for an axle that pinch bolts are preventing it to move, and a locking nut that would never get loose. I remember my last bike with a chain (also 1,000cc) called for 80 ft/lbs, if memory serves me right. Sometimes I also question some torque values, like this one. I might use 120 ft/lbs, just to make sure it's tight enough, but even that seems like overkill. All the chain-adjusting videos I watched hoping to find a specific force to be applied to the chain when checking slack (I didn't), every guy/tech loosened the axle nut relatively easy; no way any were in the triple-digit ft/lb range, let alone 140. I had to use a Gorilla wrench fully extended to break it loose without busting my hands with something. But with aluminum parts, you definitely DO NOT want to exceed that, so if done by feel, I assume you'd also be applying less than 140 ft/lbs, right? At least I hope so. He he. Finally, I've done drain plugs and many other fasteners by feel for decades, and never an issue, but with more and more aluminum parts, I started using a torque wrench for everything to play it safe. Many times I don't apply what manuals call for, but always use a torque wrench now.
Last Edit: Oct 21, 2018 13:57:16 GMT -7 by elptxjc