Hey guys,
Seen a few post regarding lower handlebars for the MT/FZ 10 and since I was going to to the swap I figured I would take some photos and do a little write up. Overall, not too difficult of a swap, just a little time consuming getting things in the spot you want and a little bit of mucking around in my case with the dash spacing.
Step 1
Figure out what bars you want to run. Go to your local motorcycle store and look at the different bends/brands and figure out what will work for you and what feels best. I went with the Protaper Evo Steering Damper Low. This is (IIRC) their lowest bar, with the least rise and sweep. Being 6ft6 these allowed me to actually stretch out my arms and not feel so cramped on the bike. Also made the position a little more aggressive and less windy above 110kmh.
Step 2
Take some photos showing cable routing, general set-up and locations of switches etc. I also took photos of my clutch adjustment (engine side) so I had a reference point when I put it all back together.
Step 3
- Place your bike on a rear stand or whatever you like, makes it easier to work on if its level.
- Remove bar ends and grips. I ended up carefully cutting mine off as I was swapping to some Renthal grips.
- Remove stock mirrors
- Disconnect your clutch cable from the lever
- Disconnect your clutch switch from the lever (so you can slide the clutch and perch off the bar)
- Unscrew your switch block and weird clamp that's inside the switch block
- Remove throttle cables and throttle tube
- Remove brake master cylinder/lever assembly and carefully set aside (on a rag)
- Undo starting switch block and set aside
After all that, you should be left with something that looks a little like this:
Step 4
- Remove the 4 bolts holding the handlebar clamps on and remove those stock bars
- Mount up your new bars and re-install your top clamps loosely
- Sit on the bike and get a feel for what you think is going to work for you
Step 5
- In my case, I have had to space the dash so it is sitting more towards the front wheel than the handle bars/tank if that makes sense. This was due to my brake line hitting the bottom right of the dash.
- To do this start by removing your windscreen (4 large Allen key bolts,). It will need a little bit of assistance to pop off as there are some locating/push style pins holding it in also.
- Once this is out of the way, remove the top triangular shaped piece and lower cover (25 and 26 of
www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/5b4cc53987a86610086dc434/cowling-2)- Next remove the 4 hex head bolts holding the meter stay in place (Part 1 of link above)
- Now you will have access to the dash
- Remove the 3 self tapping screws holding the dash on and wiggle it out of the way
- You'll see 3 black grommets/dampers that space the dash. Pull these out carefully.
- Take these with you to your local auto store and find some rubber wire grommets in the same diameter but less thickness (can't remember what size I used and pretty sure I've thrown out the packet)
- Re-install these and the above in the reverse order. This will reduce the spacing on the dash and give you more clearance from brake lines, while not fouling the dash on the windscreen etc.
Step 6
- Install your brake master cylinder/lever, starter switch block and throttle tube. Get these into a rough position of where you want them
- To get your clutch perch over the knurled end of the handle bar, you are going to have to open the clutch perch up slightly. Use a flat bladed screw driver and carefully pry it open. Only do small amounts at a time and be very careful, I ended up using a bit of WD-40 to act as lube to get it over the knurled end.
- Install your left hand switch block and get it roughly in place.
- Jump back on a have a feel what is working for you and what feels most comfortable.
Step 7
- Once you've worked out where you want your switches, levers and handle bar position you'll have to make a choice of whether you are going to drill the bars for the locating tabs or cut the tabs off and use some tape so the clamps have something to bite into.
- I opted for the latter. I've never had an issue before and knowing me I'll probably change the bar position and switches 100 times before I'm happy.
- Take some side cutters, Dremel or whatever to the small locating tabs on the throttle tube and starter switch block. I also sanded these down so they are as flat as possible.
- Wrap some thick tape (I used that flex tape as its quite thick and it'll hold a boat together
) either around the bar or inside of the switch block.
- Do the same for the throttle tube. I used two smaller pieces (one for each half of the tube clamp)
- On the left hand side you can just remove the small black insert in the switch block housing as this has the little locating tab in it
- I re-used the weird clamp thing as that helps secure it all down. Again, wrap some tape around it to give it something to clamp to
- Re-install your clutch cable and set up your free play
Step 8
- Jump back on the bike and finalise your positions etc before tightening anything down
- I didn't cut my bars down as I liked them at full width and feels most natural to me
- Re-install your mirrors
- Check that nothing is binding, catching, rubbing or stretching on lock to lock
- Tighten everything down (to spec of course) and pay special attention that your throttle is operating correctly and not grabbing or sticking
- Install your grips
- Take it for a test ride and see how you like it. I've changed my bar position a few times, just trying to find a happy medium.
Once this is done, you'll be left with something like this
All in all, well worth the swap over. If you are planning on doing this, make sure you take photos and don't rush especially when removing the plastics surrounding the dash. If it's not coming off, don't force it as you've probably missed a bolt or something. Also, as the dash and brake line clearance is so tight I will be more than likely going to swap to some braided lines soon.
I've probably missed something, but think I've covered it all pretty well.
Cheers guys,
) either around the bar or inside of the switch block. 
