bigkurka
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Post by bigkurka on Nov 22, 2019 13:32:45 GMT -7
Hello everyone. So I just ordered a new/used rear master cylinder for my bike so I can install my new rearsets. Just wanted to know if there was any special trick or anything that I should know when bleeding the rear brakes, or is it pretty much a straight forward operation. Thanks in advance
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Deleted
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Registered: Apr 23, 2024 18:57:36 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2019 11:15:04 GMT -7
The problem with ABS systems is if you let air in the system, you're supposed to start with a reverse bleed (injecting fluid from the calipers), then activate the ABS pump to bleed air out of the piston, then finish with a regular bleed (from resevoirs, down to each caliper). Good luck.
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bigkurka
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Post by bigkurka on Nov 23, 2019 23:19:48 GMT -7
Thanks for the info elptxjc. So I’m suspecting that if I do get air in the abs unit I’ll most likely have to take it to a shop that has the proper equipment to perform that procedure. We’ll cross your fingers for me hopefully I can be careful enough and not get air in the abs unit. Thanks again
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mrcdharwood
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Post by mrcdharwood on Nov 24, 2019 8:19:58 GMT -7
Reverse bleed using a large syringe of clean fluid pushing in through the rear caliper bleed nipple. This quickly and easily removes most the trapped air. Then bleed as normal to build up the brake pressure at the pedal. These help too... www.helperformance.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Banjo+bleedBanjo bleed valve to use on the ABS unit. Don't really need them on the rear but they help loads on the fronts.
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Post by hooli on Nov 25, 2019 7:42:48 GMT -7
Don't forget new crush washers.
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Post by RedAndBlack on Nov 25, 2019 9:57:58 GMT -7
Thanks for the info elptxjc. So I’m suspecting that if I do get air in the abs unit I’ll most likely have to take it to a shop that has the proper equipment to perform that procedure. We’ll cross your fingers for me hopefully I can be careful enough and not get air in the abs unit. Thanks again
There's the "redneck" way of bleeding the ABS.
Basically, do the swap as normal, and then take the bike to a place of low traction like a dirt or gravel road and slam on the rear brake, forcing the ABS to engage. This should cycle the fluid out of the ABS unit and hopefully push any air out of it. You can then bleed the brakes again and hopefully push the air out.
Actually, now that I think about it, if you're only doing the rear brake you can probably try this on any normal street.
If you're only swapping the master and not the lines, you might even get lucky and not get any air into the ABS unit at all.
Good luck!
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bigkurka
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Post by bigkurka on Nov 25, 2019 15:12:34 GMT -7
Thanks for the replies. I received my new rear master cylinder today. Hopefully over thanksgiving I will find some time to install. I was thinking of bench bleeding the master cylinder and then try and do a quick swap and just bleed where the hose attaches to the block first and see how it goes from there. Thanks again everyone
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wodger63
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Post by wodger63 on Nov 27, 2019 20:44:40 GMT -7
I was told by my shop when I was doing my 30K service which included changing the brake fluid, just do it as you would on a non ABS bike. So that's how I did it, I just kept topping up the fluid, pump, bleed, pump, bled until the new fluid came out the bleeder. All went well without an issue and no harder than bikes without ABS that I had done in the past. Here's an article which confirms this. www.motorcyclistonline.com/how-do-you-bleed-brakes-on-abs-equipped-bikes/
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 28, 2019 19:32:56 GMT -7
That's true... WHEN NOT CHANGING THE MASTER CYLINDER, like the OP did . I recently bled my brakes, and zero issues. By the way, it's better to suck up old fluid first, clean the reservoir, then fill it up, and start bleeding. I used a pint for both front and rear brakes. For cars, I use a quart.
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wodger63
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Post by wodger63 on Nov 28, 2019 22:22:56 GMT -7
That's true... WHEN NOT CHANGING THE MASTER CYLINDER, like the OP did . I recently bled my brakes, and zero issues. By the way, it's better to suck up old fluid first, clean the reservoir, then fill it up, and start bleeding. I used a pint for both front and rear brakes. For cars, I use a quart. Would make no difference. If you suck all the old fluid out first, you're introducing air, no different to replacing the master cylinder. Drain the old fluid out, flush it, replace master cylinder, reverse bleed. Too easy.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 29, 2019 14:21:50 GMT -7
If you suck all the old fluid out first, you're introducing air, no different to replacing the master cylinder. Nope. You're wrong brother. You're not removing anything that can have air trapped inside. Besides, I don't suck fluid below the bottom of the reservoir. It's always safer to inject fluid from below when changing an MC, to push any air up, but you're free to believe whatever you want . Just trying to help OP avoid a future headache. If he remembers his HS physics classes, he'll know I'm right .
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wodger63
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Post by wodger63 on Dec 1, 2019 14:45:01 GMT -7
It's always safer to inject fluid from below when changing an MC, to push any air up,
So what do you think reverse bleeding is?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2019 11:43:54 GMT -7
I already said reverse bleeding on my first post, so was just saying it in a different way. You keep saying it's the same procedure to bleed brakes normally than when removing master cylinder, and it's not. Don't want to keep arguing with a toddler, so I'm ignoring you. The OP already has enough information to make up his mind .
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wodger63
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Post by wodger63 on Dec 2, 2019 14:21:05 GMT -7
I already said reverse bleeding on my first post, so was just saying it in a different way. You keep saying it's the same procedure to bleed brakes normally than when removing master cylinder, and it's not. Don't want to keep arguing with a toddler, so I'm ignoring you. The OP already has enough information to make up his mind . Didn't realise we we're arguing, sorry you felt the need to resort to a sly insult. I'm fine with being ignored by you, but any time you want to step and put some big boy pants on, I will be here.
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superspirit
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Post by superspirit on Dec 2, 2019 17:19:34 GMT -7
I already said reverse bleeding on my first post, so was just saying it in a different way. You keep saying it's the same procedure to bleed brakes normally than when removing master cylinder, and it's not. Don't want to keep arguing with a toddler, so I'm ignoring you. The OP already has enough information to make up his mind . Didn't realise we we're arguing, sorry you felt the need to resort to a sly insult. I'm fine with being ignored by you, but any time you want to step and put some big boy pants on, I will be here. I wouldn't take offense. He comes on and insults everyone and if you say anything to him you get blocked. I honestly can't believe the moderators haven't stepped in and banned this guy yet. I went from posting daily to once in a great while because I'm not interested in his BS.
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Post by bigmeanbluemachine on Apr 3, 2023 2:44:20 GMT -7
Hey everyone.
Thought i would continue on this topic rather than create a new one.
I just changed brake lines and did rear caliper rebuild. Put all back together but was not aware that at that point that i need to do reverse bleed. I can see everyone is advising to start with reverse bleed and then do normal bleeding.
My question is - can I fix this issue by reverse bleed without draining the line first?
P.S. While my rear break works great it does locks up and ABS does absolutely nothing.
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Post by willl84 on Apr 3, 2023 3:52:57 GMT -7
Hey everyone. Thought i would continue on this topic rather than create a new one. I just changed brake lines and did rear caliper rebuild. Put all back together but was not aware that at that point that i need to do reverse bleed. I can see everyone is advising to start with reverse bleed and then do normal bleeding. My question is - can I fix this issue by reverse bleed without draining the line first? P.S. While my rear break works great it does locks up and ABS does absolutely nothing. You don't need to reverse bleed. I bled normally when I did my brake line swap. I also used a vacuum bleeder though and that helps a ton. Reverse bleeding can be easier but it's not needed. If the lever feels solid and the wheel locks up I'd say it's bled fine. If ABS isn't kicking in that's a whole different issue. Is your ABS light always on? It's normally on when you start the bike until you start moving.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2023 11:12:23 GMT -7
Just installed stainless steel braided lines and can tell you there is no need to do a special "bleeding process" because of the ABS.
After installing and bleeding normally I just took the bike out and broke really hard over and over getting abs to engage. Feel improved each time.
Took her back in and bled the lines a little more.
They bite much harder now than before!
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Post by bigmeanbluemachine on Apr 4, 2023 4:13:05 GMT -7
Ok, thanks guys for your input.
However there is still something wrong with mine. I did reverse bleed, then also emptied the system and did the full system bleed again but to no success.
If i press rear break pedal hard enough, rear wheel still locks up and i don't feel the pedal until i am at a complete stop. I would have assumed that ABS should have prevented that but it does nothing.
Any suggestions are welcome.
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