oldster52
Junior Member
Posts: 50
Likes: 21
Registered: Dec 16, 2018 17:36:53 GMT -7
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Post by oldster52 on Dec 12, 2019 2:49:16 GMT -7
I bought the Motion Pro PBR chain tool from Revzilla along with the first attempt on the Vortex all-in-one kit for $92. I used the tool to remove the old chain. It works fine; tell you more when the rest of the parts arrive and I press and rivet the new one on. I went with a DID VX, which is an X-Ring. It was on sale and in stock at Sportbike Track Gear ($116). This is the DID “cheaper” chain, which I believe is very close to OEM- a 525 DID VZ z-ring number. I saw a video from Canyon Chasers where Dave says that with a high quality chain and proper maintenance he gets 2 chains to one sprocket set. He states that he has 30k miles on the chain he changes in the video on his Ducati Multistrada!?!? Anyway, I will post my results with the new set-up of Votex aluminum rear/Driven front/ DID VX 525 chain.
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oldster52
Junior Member
Posts: 50
Likes: 21
Registered: Dec 16, 2018 17:36:53 GMT -7
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Post by oldster52 on Dec 12, 2019 13:22:12 GMT -7
The front sprocket nut is a requires a 30mm socket (Harbor Freight). It is a staked nut/shaft combination, so you just need a small flat-head screwdriver and hammer to tap the flanges of the nut out of the channel in the shaft on each side; very simple. The Yamaha manual says to replace the nut and washer, which is called "spring washer". I went with the DID 525VX; an X-ring chain, mostly because it was on sale and in stock on Sportbike Track Gear. I bought the Motion Pro PBR tool from Revzilla with my original order ($92) and used it to take off the original chain, which worked just fine. I watched a video from Canyon Chasers where Dave says this smaller tool is not great for our size chain and recommends the $140 heavy-duty number. He also says in that video that OEM chains are notoriously sucky and he usally gets around 10k miles out of them. He puts on higher quality chains and says he can get 2 chains to each set of sprockets, and his Ducati Multistrada chain he changes in the video has 30K miles on it?!?!? Anyway, I haven't yet received all the parts to get my bike back on the road yet. I will definitely post to let you know how it goes.
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Mar 29, 2024 2:02:04 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2019 21:24:00 GMT -7
I was under the impression to always replace both sprockets along with the chain, but it'd be awesome for the sprockets to last 2 chains. I prefer to buy a chain already the proper size, since we have to remove both sprockets anyway. The only way it'd justify to buy the tool is if both sprockets can be reused, where it'd be easier to just cut the old chain, slide it out, and install/rivet the new one. But even though I don't doubt my wrenching abilities , I'd prefer to buy a chain of the proper size already.
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oldster52
Junior Member
Posts: 50
Likes: 21
Registered: Dec 16, 2018 17:36:53 GMT -7
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Post by oldster52 on Dec 13, 2019 3:22:23 GMT -7
I posted a couple of pictures of the original front sprocket vs. replacement Driven steel sprocket in OEM gearing and pitch (16t /525). Quite the difference, huh?? As far as the chain tool goes, I bought it mainly for the press/ rivet functions. Much easier to cut the chain with a 4” grinder if it’s toast anyway. I couldn’t resist trying the breaking function though. The new chain I got came in 110 or 120 link options, so I will need to cut the new one down to 114. Based on personal experience from years ago and numerous videos/ articles the clip-type master link is more prone to failure vs. rivet type. Not sure about screw-type. My rear sprocket will be delivered today, but I won’t be able to get to it until Sunday. I will post a couple of pictures of the installation as an FYI.
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Post by hooli on Dec 13, 2019 8:24:27 GMT -7
Keep in mind that lots of riders neglect to clean the backside of the rear sprocket. Lots of grime can build up on the hub facing side.
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Post by rracerfz10 on Feb 3, 2020 2:38:58 GMT -7
Has anyone gone two teeth down on the rear sprocket like the R1 is? I’m thinking that doing so would net a couple benefits imo. Slightly longer wheelbase/more stability, lower revs on the highway and possibly better fuel mileage. Any thoughts?
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Post by rracerfz10 on May 15, 2020 2:34:40 GMT -7
I figured out my down shifting issues I was having. The clutch wasn’t adjusted right. There was way too much slack so I’m guessing the clutch wasn’t fully disengaging when pulled in. I turned the adjuster in towards the lever quite a lot and all is well. I used the two credit card method of measuring slack lol. Pull the lever and place two cards in between the lever and perch. Two credit cards is supposed to be the prefect amount of gap. I think it was SBTT on YouTube is where I saw this. Worked great.
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