oldster52
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Registered: Dec 16, 2018 17:36:53 GMT -7
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Post by oldster52 on Nov 18, 2019 4:52:52 GMT -7
I have a ‘17 FZ10 with a dealership-installed quickshifter that I ride just about every day with 15k miles on it. I sometimes have trouble downshifting, meaning the gears won’t click down as I downshift. It helps if I only downshift under higher RPM’s , and it happens about 25% of the time. I have read that it may be a warped clutch pressure plate. The clutch other wise feels fine; no trouble upshifting. Any ideas out there?
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Post by RedAndBlack on Nov 18, 2019 14:48:48 GMT -7
I would start with checking the shift linkage. I had an issue after messing with my rearsets where when the shift linkage got into a certain configuration, my shifts were affected. I would check it and tighten or loosen it as appropriate.
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Post by mindcrime79 on Nov 18, 2019 16:49:02 GMT -7
i was told that the stock quick shift was only up...not down shifting...translogic unit does both however. i use the translogic and it needs to be high rpm (i believe over 3500) to work on down shifts.
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oldster52
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Post by oldster52 on Nov 20, 2019 1:19:44 GMT -7
My quickshifter only goes up; I mentioned it as general information. How do you like the quickshifter you have? Working well? I will check linkage-thank you. I have been paying more attention to the problem and have noticed: Most common going down to 1st/ when it does happen I can get it to go down if I apply a bit of pressure up then down real quick Thanks!
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Post by mindcrime79 on Nov 20, 2019 1:24:08 GMT -7
are you referring to downshifting with the clutch or clutchless downshifts with the quickshifter. you confused me because you mentioned the quickshifter first then asked about down shifting. if you meant in general i would check that the clutch cable hasnt stretched or needs adjustment...do you have aftermarket adjustable clutch lever? try a setting where the lever moves further from the handle bar.
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wodger63
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Post by wodger63 on Nov 20, 2019 14:27:06 GMT -7
Most common going down to 1st/ when it does happen I can get it to go down if I apply a bit of pressure up then down real quick Sounds like your just disengaging the clutch and pressing down on the gear lever, either that or not using the clutch at all. A little blip of the throttle to match revs with the next lower gear can make the shift so much smoother and reliable. Alternately you have a binding issue with the linkage from the QS install, as mentioned check your linkages for smooth operation.
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Deleted
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Registered: Mar 28, 2024 18:39:48 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Nov 20, 2019 15:51:03 GMT -7
My 2017 downshifts flawlessly, but I always rev-match. Not always perfectly, but I always try . When I need to stop quickly, I downshift several gears in succession without rev-matching, and it also downshifts easily. My question to you is if you started having issues all of a sudden, or after dealer installed the QS? Or some other change you made (rearsets, etc)? That can tell you where to look. Good luck.
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oldster52
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Post by oldster52 on Nov 21, 2019 11:26:13 GMT -7
The problem has started all of a sudden; it doesn't have anything to do with quickshifter as it only goes up. I adjusted the linkage up and down and still have the problem. I have also adjusted clutch free play in and out
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Post by mindcrime79 on Nov 21, 2019 15:10:29 GMT -7
When is the last time you changed the oil? Anything done differently?
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oldster52
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Post by oldster52 on Nov 29, 2019 3:23:56 GMT -7
I changed oil at 16k. I recently removed the front sprocket cover to clean; had to swing shift rod out of the way. Maybe this is what started the problem. I have been adjusting the shift rod and clutch lever and this has helped a lot.
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Post by mindcrime79 on Nov 29, 2019 12:36:45 GMT -7
reason i ask is i noticed improved shifting after fresh oil change. post picture of shift rod. everything needs to be 90 degree angles. after photo will advise further...
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oldster52
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Post by oldster52 on Dec 1, 2019 8:53:47 GMT -7
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oldster52
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Post by oldster52 on Dec 1, 2019 8:57:44 GMT -7
The issue is virtually gone. I just changed oil and adjusted at the lever and shifter. I have to replace my chain and sprockets now, so I will need to remove the shift rod again. I will need to get the re-installation and adjustment right.
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Post by mindcrime79 on Dec 1, 2019 9:04:51 GMT -7
Angles look good. Reference this picture when reassembling. Doesn't hurt to mark the bolts either.
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oldster52
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Post by oldster52 on Dec 2, 2019 11:11:16 GMT -7
Thank you for the help!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2019 13:15:02 GMT -7
The issue is virtually gone. I just changed oil and adjusted at the lever and shifter. I have to replace my chain and sprockets now, so I will need to remove the shift rod again. I will need to get the re-installation and adjustment right. Hey, how many miles did your chain last? Just curious. As far as 'adjustments', there shouldn't be any when you just detach the shifter from the transmission. You just have to line up the horizontal mark on the transmission's rod where the shifter's 'C' clamp splits. Looks closely now, and you'll see it. Hope this helps.
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oldster52
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Post by oldster52 on Dec 8, 2019 15:20:46 GMT -7
I let my chain go way too long; this is the first change at 18k miles. It was the factory DID chain. I cleaned/lubed it every few hundred miles and most always after wet rides. It was stretched beyond the allowable limit in the service manual (239mm for 15 links) and once I removed it I found several broken rollers. I have ordered the Vortex OEM spec chain and sprocket kit. I will definitely care for and maintain this chain better! Thanks for the tips on the shift rod!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2019 14:25:41 GMT -7
Sounds like you maintained the chain well. But 18K miles is a ton for a chain IMO. I think past 15K is not a good idea to keep it, especially on a powerful bike like ours. Hey, how are the sprockets? Are they worn evenly, or the steel front less than the alloy rear? Curious about that too. Finally, do you think Vortex is better than DID for the chain? And Vortex better than stock with sprockets? Thx.
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oldster52
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Post by oldster52 on Dec 10, 2019 15:09:05 GMT -7
I went way too long on the first chain. Rookie mistake...it’s been 20 years since I’ve had a bike with a chain. I was keeping a close eye on the sprockets, which don’t look too bad. The front looks worse to me than the rear-what do you think? Unfortunately I still don’t have the correct parts after two failed attempts by Revzilla. BTW- the Vortex kit for our bike is mislabeled on Revzilla site and Cycle Gear site. If you want the Vortex OEM kit, the correct part number is: CK6447; this includes a black chain. According to the Vortex site a gold finish is not available. I gave up on Revzilla and ordered an aluminum Vortex rear, Driven front, and DID chain from STG. I chose these because they were in stock. We’ll see how it goes!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2019 10:58:31 GMT -7
Thanks a lot for the pics. This is also my first chain bike in decades, hence all my questions . Surprisingly, the rear sprocket has very minor wear. The front is definitely worn out, but not to an unsafe level. Guess there's no escaping replacing both at the same time. May I ask you where did you buy the tool needed to remove the front sprocket? Thank you. And also thank you for the information for the kit. I prefer a black chain, but as long as it's the right one, don't mind if it's gold. How about 'O' vs 'X' ring? It's supposed to be more maintenance friendly, as in requiring less lubing. And please keep us posted on your impressions of your new parts. Good luck.
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