High speed wobble?

bike is not very stable, sorry the short wheel base, the up right position, its NOT a stable bike by design.

At least not compared to some other bikes, thats for sure

Anyways, you asked for some aftermarket ones because you obviously feel that it isn't very stable for you.

I have also looked into swapping mine out for personal preference and can tell you that Ohlins and HyperPro make some for our ride.
cheers

So you're saying you replaced it with a Shinko, or you replaced the Shinko?

This is huge. If you have a soft rear and a stiff front you’ll really feel unstable at speed. The preload on my rear shock was turned almost all the way soft and it made the bike a mess everywhere. At speed in the corners low speed maneuvers.

Here’s what I’ve noticed. Say you’re crushing at 100mpd and give the bars a quick wiggle the whole bike wobbles. Is that what you’re talking about? I think that this particular issue is a result of the shorter wheelbase the FZ/MT-10 has compared to the R1. The steering geometry is the same as the R1 right? Well you shorten the wheelbase by an incr that’ll make a massive difference in front end stability.

The larger rear sprocket is to blame for that. Keep the same length chain and go down two teeth on the rear sprocket and you’ll be at the R1 wheelbase. I’m going to call my mechanic tomorrow and ask him to order me what he needs to to the job. My bike only has 1,700miles on it so I may be able to get away with just changing the rear sprocket worst case both of them. The chain will be fine.

Now before you jump me I’ve been riding all sorts of sport bikes for over 20 years. Worked parts at Hap’s cycle sales in Florida for 3 years and sold bikes at Rossiter’s HD for two years. There was a 7 year period where I didn’t own a car and all I had were bikes. So I’m fairly certain I can reuse this chain.

Double check that your suspension settings are the same on both forks. Other than tire pressure and geometry, this could very well be your problem. I had a bike that came from the factory with mis-matching fork settings and it took me a while to figure out the problem. When everything is set up properly you shouldn't have any issues.

Spring rates I can understand but if the oil is flowing at vastly different rates through the passages in the forks I can see that causing at issue.

Those are defined that way. Ok try this. Turn your compression and rebound all the open on one leg and all the way closed on the other and go for a ride.

The forks that only have one adjustable leg those adjustments are laughable. I’ve worked in the industry at two different dealerships for a combined 10 years almost and I’ve been riding and in the motorcycling life for over 22 years. I’ve owned and worked on Honda Triumph Suzuki Yamaha Buell bikes. I know I’m just another guy on the Internet so believe what you want. If you took 10 min to research or even think logically about your question I doubt you would’ve asked it.

That I’m not sure about. I don’t claim to know everything it just makes sense in a fork set designed to be set up the same in each leg having wildly different settings would cause problems. Comparing that to forks that are designed to be tuned independently is apples and oranges.

Back on topic. Set your sag and makes sure you still have static sag front and rear. Meaning press hard and fast down on the seat holding the bike upright not on the side stand. The lift the rear of the bike. It should be able to be lifted some. If not you have too much preload and need a stiffer spring. Same goes for the front. On YouTube Dave Moss and Motojutsu have good videos on this stuff.