lotust251
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Post by lotust251 on Sept 23, 2019 6:53:48 GMT -7
Ok so I have been changing my own oil for 20+ years on everything I owned trucks cars motorcycles ect.. never had to change a "crush" washer in oil changes. I did the first oil change on my MT10 at 500 miles then the second at 1500 miles now at 2300 miles in 5 months This last oil change ONLY keep dripping oil from the alloy looking OEM washer the parts dept gave me. So I carefully swapped a perfect looking OEM washer out. Anyway it leaking from there. I even bought a torque wrench ! lol im set to 17 foot pounds like the manual says. Nothing is stripped out on me. I don't get it. Maybe the washers are garbage? should I switch to copper or did the dealership where I bought the bike from give me 2 bad washers? They don't seem to crush at all like the ones on my 2014 Toyota Tundra do.  If the pic im uploading is too large sorry. You can actually see it coming out if you zoom in.   |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2019 8:30:32 GMT -7
You should ALWAYS replace crush washers  . And also clean the area well, which you can’t do anymore if just swapping crush washers. I’d try torquing the drain bolt to 20 ft/lbs, which is still relatively light. If unsuccessful, you’d have to change the oil again and do it right. By the way, I also used 17 on my bike, since drain bolt is easily reachable, and no leaks. On my vehicles that I can’t see/touch the drain plug (belly pan, etc), I always use 25 ft/lbs, to avoid leaks, and never an issue. I also use 25 on Porsches, even though they call for 37, which is too much for aluminum IMO, and not needed. Good luck. |
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Post by RedAndBlack on Sept 23, 2019 12:34:09 GMT -7
I don't replace my crush washers, never have had an issue. Just simply inspect them to make sure they aren't deformed.
With that being said, I've had unexplained leaks in brake fluid lines. Just had to clean everything thoroughly with brake cleaner and reapplied and properly retorqued and then no leak. That's where I would start first. Get a new washer, clean the threads as best as you can, and then retorque. Inspect the threads and make sure nothing is messed up.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2019 23:08:14 GMT -7
Forgot to add I’ve reused crush washers when don’t have one available, but always sand them smooth first. Crush washers are supposed to ‘crush’ when torqued, to avoid leaks. If not crushed/deformed a little, they were not tight enough. They’re only $0.25 or so, and are supposed to be replaced every time. It’s crazy to risk an oil change for $0.25, but to each his own . |
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Post by RedAndBlack on Sept 24, 2019 8:24:45 GMT -7
I could be wrong, I'm not a mechanical engineer, but I thought the point of washers is so you don't overtighten the bolt. This way if you do overtighten, you will damage the washer before you damage the threads or the surface of what you're trying to torque down. So if you're tightening the bolt to the point of deforming the washer, you're using too much torque.
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dkim213
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Post by dkim213 on Sept 24, 2019 8:43:55 GMT -7
I could be wrong, I'm not a mechanical engineer, but I thought the point of washers is so you don't overtighten the bolt. This way if you do overtighten, you will damage the washer before you damage the threads or the surface of what you're trying to torque down. So if you're tightening the bolt to the point of deforming the washer, you're using too much torque. I never thought of it like that. It’s possible. I thought it was aluminum or copper because they plastically deform to conform to the surface irregularities. |
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lotust251
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Post by lotust251 on Sept 24, 2019 10:51:10 GMT -7
ill try another washer. But like I said when I changed it the 2nd time quickly putting my finger over the drain hole now to let out the 60$ worth of Motul Oil. I will give it another go. But I really was checking to see if this was common for this bike with the OEM washer. I never had a problem in my life before. I always clean the surfaces with a clean rag.
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dkim213
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Post by dkim213 on Sept 24, 2019 10:52:25 GMT -7
ill try another washer. But like I said when I changed it the 2nd time quickly putting my finger over the drain hole now to let out the 60$ worth of Motul Oil. I will give it another go. But I really was checking to see if this was common for this bike with the OEM washer. I never had a problem in my life before. I always clean the surfaces with a clean rag. Sounds like the best approach. |
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lotust251
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Post by lotust251 on Sept 27, 2019 14:16:25 GMT -7
Uhhh I cleaned everything WELL with brake cleaner. It coming from the pan gasket in the back. I guess it back to the dealership. Im not messing with it. Clean all the oil off thoroughly and drive it slow till it got up to temp and really get down low and look hard. I don't want to send it in yet since it just a few drops when riding. I would love to finish the season with it in my hands. Fall is creeping up and it been in the 40's in the morning. Im not much for that.
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Post by RedAndBlack on Sept 27, 2019 19:30:58 GMT -7
Uhhh I cleaned everything WELL with brake cleaner. It coming from the pan gasket in the back. I guess it back to the dealership. Im not messing with it. Clean all the oil off thoroughly and drive it slow till it got up to temp and really get down low and look hard. I don't want to send it in yet since it just a few drops when riding. I would love to finish the season with it in my hands. Fall is creeping up and it been in the 40's in the morning. Im not much for that. Smart choice! LEt them figure it out especially if its under warranty. Thanks for checking back with us to report about it. I was curious about this one! |
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dkim213
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Post by dkim213 on Sept 27, 2019 20:20:26 GMT -7
Interesting, an oil pan gasket leak huh? I just had mine in for a slow oil pan leak, but only shows up when on the side stand.  |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 27, 2019 23:23:49 GMT -7
I could be wrong, I'm not a mechanical engineer, but I thought the point of washers is so you don't overtighten the bolt. Absolutely correct, so crush washers actually have 2 jobs: conform to irregularities (by deforming a little), and prevent overtorquing. My factory crush washer was deformed quite a bit, so obviously torqued quite a bit more than 17 ft/lbs (which is not enough to dent it). My bike doesn't leak, but it's a bit oily around the washer, so only borderline tight. Will use 20 ft/lbs next time, to avoid that. On a sadder note, I may have the dreaded oil pan gasket leak too  . Noticed oil residue after the week long TX Hill Country tour that I doubt was due to road oil. Will clean everything perfectly and monitor it. Now that I read Dkim213 post, it all makes sense. My bike always sits on a chock, so vertical. At the Hill Country, it sat for 5+ days on its sidestand, and that's probably why the leak showed until now. It's a lot less than Dkim213's bike, but maybe his is on the side stand all the time. At any rate, my warranty just expired, and decided not to buy the Y.E.S. contract, but not sure I'd get it fixed even if it was still under warranty. If it's leaking, it's very little for 5 days, and I can live with that. If it gets worse, I'd just fix it myself next winter. We'll see. |
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dkim213
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Post by dkim213 on Sept 28, 2019 10:53:36 GMT -7
It’s weird that these oil pan leaks are happening. My bike is usually on the side stand unless I’m doing some sort of maintenance.
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lotust251
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Post by lotust251 on Sept 29, 2019 5:32:42 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Sept 29, 2019 23:05:29 GMT -7
Glad gto hear that cured the leak. Maybe they were undertorqued. Did you check what's the factory torque for those bolts? I'd loosen one by one and re-torque them to spec, and see if that works. I might do that if my bike has an actual leak there. Thanks for the heads up . |
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oldbob
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Post by oldbob on Oct 1, 2019 18:14:48 GMT -7
Ok so I have been changing my own oil for 20+ years on everything I owned trucks cars motorcycles ect.. never had to change a "crush" washer in oil changes. I did the first oil change on my MT10 at 500 miles then the second at 1500 miles now at 2300 miles in 5 months This last oil change ONLY keep dripping oil from the alloy looking OEM washer the parts dept gave me. So I carefully swapped a perfect looking OEM washer out. Anyway it leaking from there. I even bought a torque wrench ! lol im set to 17 foot pounds like the manual says. Nothing is stripped out on me. I don't get it. Maybe the washers are garbage? should I switch to copper or did the dealership where I bought the bike from give me 2 bad washers? They don't seem to crush at all like the ones on my 2014 Toyota Tundra do. If the pic im uploading is too large sorry. You can actually see it coming out if you zoom in. I've been wrenching on cars and motorcycles since I was a teenager and I'm turning 65 this year. I currently own 3 motorcycles of Japanese origin and have never replaced the "crush" washers when changing oil on any of them and have never experienced a leak from a drain plug from not replacing the washer. I guess there's a first time for every thing though. I have experienced leaks from stripping the threads.  I'm understanding that you did replace the washer twice and still have the leak so something else may be at play. Someone else suggested upping the tightening torque a bit which is a reasonable idea if caution is exercised. I wouldn't jump to a higher number like double the factory spec but would move it up in small increments until the leak stops to avoid possible stripping out the aluminum. I have stripped out drain plugs once or twice before by being over zealous in tightening without a torque wrench. However, I learn from my mistakes and have learned to tighten them without stripping the threads. You may find after a couple of additional ft lbs of torque that it stops leaking as you will have forced the new washer into conformity. Good luck and let us all know what happens. |
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lotust251
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Post by lotust251 on Oct 13, 2019 3:35:47 GMT -7
turns out its still leaking. It slowed a bit but still there. Fall is here. Im going to drop it off at the dealer soon. I might pick up an extended warranty to.
edit: its from the pan gasket not the bolt as I thought originally
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Post by evitzee on Oct 15, 2019 17:05:46 GMT -7
These leaks must be very random. I have an early 2017 model made in 08/16 and it is always on its sidestand except when in operation. After three years still tight with no seepage anywhere in the oil or coolant systems.
Perhaps Yamaha had a bad batch of gaskets or perhaps a hiccup in their machining of crankcase and oil pan. A new gasket should solve the issue.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2019 18:05:46 GMT -7
How many miles Evitzee? It seems to be related to miles ridden. I only have slightly less than 3K. Don't see any leaks on my bike after cleaning it, but haven't used it. Need to get the inspection one of these days, before changing the oil again and putting her to sleep for the winter . Hope it was just road oil, and not from the gasket. It was just in one area. |
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Post by evitzee on Oct 20, 2019 20:12:26 GMT -7
How many miles Evitzee? It seems to be related to miles ridden. I only have slightly less than 3K. Don't see any leaks on my bike after cleaning it, but haven't used it. Need to get the inspection one of these days, before changing the oil again and putting her to sleep for the winter . Hope it was just road oil, and not from the gasket. It was just in one area. A little over 9,000 miles. No seeps, weeps or leaks (so far). |
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. And also clean the area well, which you can’t do anymore if just swapping crush washers. I’d try torquing the drain bolt to 20 ft/lbs, which is still relatively light. If unsuccessful, you’d have to change the oil again and do it right. By the way, I also used 17 on my bike, since drain bolt is easily reachable, and no leaks. On my vehicles that I can’t see/touch the drain plug (belly pan, etc), I always use 25 ft/lbs, to avoid leaks, and never an issue. I also use 25 on Porsches, even though they call for 37, which is too much for aluminum IMO, and not needed. Good luck.
. Noticed oil residue after the week long TX Hill Country tour that I doubt was due to road oil. Will clean everything perfectly and monitor it. Now that I read Dkim213 post, it all makes sense. My bike always sits on a chock, so vertical. At the Hill Country, it sat for 5+ days on its sidestand, and that's probably why the leak showed until now. It's a lot less than Dkim213's bike, but maybe his is on the side stand all the time. At any rate, my warranty just expired, and decided not to buy the Y.E.S. contract, but not sure I'd get it fixed even if it was still under warranty. If it's leaking, it's very little for 5 days, and I can live with that. If it gets worse, I'd just fix it myself next winter. We'll see. 
I'm understanding that you did replace the washer twice and still have the leak so something else may be at play. Someone else suggested upping the tightening torque a bit which is a reasonable idea if caution is exercised. I wouldn't jump to a higher number like double the factory spec but would move it up in small increments until the leak stops to avoid possible stripping out the aluminum. I have stripped out drain plugs once or twice before by being over zealous in tightening without a torque wrench. However, I learn from my mistakes and have learned to tighten them without stripping the threads. You may find after a couple of additional ft lbs of torque that it stops leaking as you will have forced the new washer into conformity. Good luck and let us all know what happens.