splinedrive
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Posts: 8
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Registered: Dec 4, 2018 14:29:11 GMT -7
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Post by splinedrive on May 16, 2019 0:10:28 GMT -7
Anyone else with Austin Racing Gp3 belly exit exhaust can touching the right footpeg?
I contacted Kyle at Austin Racing and he told me to remove the fixing bracket bolt then measure clearance between the can and footpeg. I did what he said and found that the distance didn't change, took and sent him a bunch of pics. He replied back and said they cant figure it out and to fix the problem I would have to remove my exhaust system and send it back to them.
Now keep in mind that I paid $1200 and waited 8 weeks and 4days for my exhaust to arrive. I think its unfair that I should go through downtime on the bike for who knows how long before I would get my exhaust back?
I told Kyle that If they send me a corrected exhaust system that only then will I send back my original one.
He refused, so now Im stuck with a new exhaust system that by flawed design is wearing a hole into my can.
Anyone with the same issues with Austin Racings poor customer service?
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splinedrive
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Posts: 8
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Registered: Dec 4, 2018 14:29:11 GMT -7
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Post by splinedrive on May 16, 2019 0:22:57 GMT -7
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aavmann
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Registered: Mar 14, 2019 21:05:34 GMT -7
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Post by aavmann on May 16, 2019 0:43:25 GMT -7
Hello
I do not have this exhaust but do have an idea. Not sure how you feel about this but you could belt sand or machine the foot peg bracket parallel to the slip on exactly where it is touching. Based on the pictures only, there looks to be sufficient material on the U-shaped aluminum piece to not compromise structural integrity. 1/8" to 3/16" gap would be more than enough. It's really just the bottom corner of the bracket from what I can see. I personally would do it in a heart beat and avoid all the logistical drama that you will probably face. If you do not have access to a machine shop...a little shop vice a good file, steady hand and a little patience will have the aluminum bracket cleared in no time.
Just my opinion
Cheers
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Post by thefinn on May 16, 2019 2:26:53 GMT -7
Id say the same for the easyest fix. Not buying from austin racing thats for sure
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chipmonk
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Posts: 97
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Registered: Oct 9, 2018 9:08:36 GMT -7
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Post by chipmonk on May 16, 2019 5:13:40 GMT -7
maybe try some adjustable rear sets. I mean its an excuse to get more mods! LOL
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3lseeker
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Registered: Dec 9, 2018 10:07:56 GMT -7
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Post by 3lseeker on May 16, 2019 12:12:02 GMT -7
I would say the same with the easiest fix also, but instead of filing/sanding any components, I would try and loosen pipes/brackets and slightly modify bend or adjust brackets to make work!
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madmagpul
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Posts: 92
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Registered: Apr 9, 2018 9:27:47 GMT -7
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Post by madmagpul on May 21, 2019 14:00:48 GMT -7
Kind of late response but I had the same exact issue fitting mine. Ended up using a longer bolt and spacer to push the can away from the peg. Still only have about 5-10 mm of clearance and a line down my decal from the peg. I was not a happy camper. Have some pics of mine if you'd like to see.
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techsniffer
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Registered: Feb 22, 2019 21:48:03 GMT -7
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Post by techsniffer on May 23, 2019 13:44:53 GMT -7
I wouldn't tolerate sub-par products on my bike, I'd send it back and have them refund my money and spend it on a company that can be bothered to not produce a junk product.
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Nov 23, 2024 4:24:58 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2019 16:17:05 GMT -7
What would be insulting to me is buying one of the most expensive alternatives and having those fitment issues. If you only paid, let's say, $200, nobody would be complaining, I'd guess. Ha ha. I think what happened is AR made the pipe for the R1, and just slapped FZ/MT-10 without even checking fitment. I've seen many other instances where aftermarket companies erroneously list the FZ/MT-10 as a proper fit for R1 and MT-09 parts, I guess without even checking first. Unfortunately, due to its low production numbers, few products are specifically developed for them. But at least freaking check first, no? Geez.
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mxrider930
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Registered: Feb 28, 2018 11:12:01 GMT -7
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Post by mxrider930 on May 24, 2019 16:42:07 GMT -7
I had the same issues on mine. I ended up sanding down the rearset and told AR about it and they sent me a new muffler decal free of charge, that was the only thing that was damaged. I put the new decal on and it has been great ever since. Sanding down the rearset is not affecting the structural integrity at all.
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dkim213
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Registered: Jan 15, 2019 11:04:09 GMT -7
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Post by dkim213 on May 24, 2019 17:47:49 GMT -7
I had the same issues on mine. I ended up sanding down the rearset and told AR about it and they sent me a new muffler decal free of charge, that was the only thing that was damaged. I put the new decal on and it has been great ever since. Sanding down the rearset is not affecting the structural integrity at all. Are they going to send you a replacement? |
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chipmonk
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Registered: Oct 9, 2018 9:08:36 GMT -7
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Post by chipmonk on May 25, 2019 7:35:18 GMT -7
If any of you guys want to sell the Austin racing exhaust because of the issue I may be interested in buying.
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Post by heathhudnall on May 31, 2019 5:42:47 GMT -7
That's not cool, for such a premium exhaust. My PipeWerx R11 fit nicely.
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gunnar
Full Member
fabbin stuff...
Posts: 235
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Registered: Aug 14, 2019 9:54:53 GMT -7
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Post by gunnar on Aug 24, 2019 13:22:18 GMT -7
They might have finally adjusted the clearance issue, I have 4mm of space on this setup: 
So lets try to get some more space...the mount to deal with:  For a temporary fix, use 3 6mm washers per screw, get two 6x20 bolts and here you go(FYI there is 14mm of thread depth in the frame where the mount bolts in, stock bolts are M6X16):  So started with 4mm, now up to 8mm:  For something more permanent, going to make a few different thicknesses of spacers from 7075, maybe try some Delrin too, need to start with a piece that is 20 x 40 mm This is a VERY rough outline, but I'll make it all pretty with the grinder. Center to center of the two holes is 20mm  I'll try to get it all finished up tomorrow OK, so I made a rough test piece, this is 1/4" 7075 aluminium, a bit small on the frame side, but plenty of support for the mount:  Mount installed:  Started with 4mm, now up to 10mm of clearance, this is more than enough space I think:  I'll try to shape this a bit to match the mount side, but even as is, it'll do the job. I'm also going to make a thinner plastic piece to test, lets see if it can take the heat!  Shaped part, no need to do much more since you can't even see it:   |
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gunnar
Full Member
fabbin stuff...
Posts: 235
Likes: 146
Registered: Aug 14, 2019 9:54:53 GMT -7
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Post by gunnar on Aug 26, 2019 14:03:16 GMT -7
OK, so here is my Delrin test piece, it's 2 mm thick.(sorry said 1mm earlier, my bad) If it melts, i'll post up. If it survives with no softening or heat damage, I will make these in 3/16" (5mm clearance) or 1/4" (6mm clearance) in this material AND GIVE THEM AWAY FOR FREE to any belly exit owner who is interested, shipping included.   If AR can't fix the problem, I will And if your betting against me, my other bike is an MV Agusta F4. I made the carbon plate mount with an L shaped Delrin piece 3/8" away from the exhaust. 9500 miles later, no problems  EDIT: so far I have only run a short test, this involved a 3 minute idling test, and a 10 minute city ride (stop signs and lights, 40-45 mph max speed) and the spacer is doing good so far. Unfortunately I had minor surgery on my head (now I have a brain that works) and I'm also getting my ECU flashed, so my long distance test-100+ miles at 90-100 mph on the freeway (yes I am that crazy) will be delayed a week or so. After that test is finished I will report my results and start making parts. |
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gunnar
Full Member
fabbin stuff...
Posts: 235
Likes: 146
Registered: Aug 14, 2019 9:54:53 GMT -7
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Post by gunnar on Sept 11, 2019 11:01:44 GMT -7
So I made a jig to make these parts quicker and easier:  5mm thick piece on the bike:  I have my 2mm test part on the bike now, will do long distance and long idle tests on Saturday. |
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gunnar
Full Member
fabbin stuff...
Posts: 235
Likes: 146
Registered: Aug 14, 2019 9:54:53 GMT -7
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Post by gunnar on Sept 13, 2019 16:28:16 GMT -7
Alright, so I decided to torture this little part today, it was very hot, 95-100 degrees, so I went on a short freeway blast, then took the slow road home, about 15 stop lights, so minimum 45 seconds to 1 minute at each, cooling fans on the whole time, then when I got back I let it idle for about 7 minutes. I couldn't even get my hand near the bracket area. I thought for sure this would melt the plastic. So here it is:    So normally when this Delrin heats up, it gets shiny, then bubbles. If you notice the edge picture, if it was too hot the sanding marks would become smooth/bubbled. You can see in one shot the imprint of the mount, I had it pretty cranked down, but that imprint is only about a thou or so deep, and the part was tight when I took it off. I think a long distance test is not really needed, because at freeway speeds there is plenty of airflow to keep the spacer cool enough, and the mount provides just enough of a heatsink effect while attached to the exhaust, and the frame is a huge heatsink on the other side of the mount (although it did get quite warm during the idle test) I was hoping the distance from the midpipe to the mount was just enough (and I think just barely enough) to let the part survive. So, if a 2mm part won't melt, I highly doubt a 5 or 6mm spacer will, so at this point, testing is complete and these spacers are available if you need them, totally free including shipping, just send me a PM if interested.  |
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