Deleted
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Registered: Apr 25, 2024 4:57:14 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2019 16:43:25 GMT -7
Hey gang, just cleaned my chain and rear sprocket with WD40, with just a microfiber rag. Then dried it with a new one to remove all residue. I don't like using any brushes to avoid damaging the O-rings. Chains are lubed inside the O-rings, so lubing outside is not that critical IMO, but could be wrong. Now I'm ready to apply Tirox Synthetic Chain Wax for the first time, but want to know why it's supposed to be better warm than cold. And if yes with a regular lube, why? And does it make any difference with my Tirox synthetic product??? Thx.
By the way, what's the best way to use this product? I plan to spray the bottom of the chain from the top, but curious if I should wipe it with a microfiber after application to remove excess, and if yes, how long should I wait after each spray? No specific instructions on the bottle, hence my asking. Thanks again gang.
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Post by thefinn on Jan 12, 2019 17:24:15 GMT -7
You are going to get a lot of different answers here.
I personally warm up my chain beforehand. The inportant bits to get to is the o-rings. When I used spray wax/lube (moved to a brush on wax, less fling in my experience), i had the wheel up, gave it a good spin and aimed lube into the slit to the o-rings on each side. Immediately after I took a rag (do this with brush on wax too) and while twisting the rag around the chain back and fourth "like a screwdriver" i spin the wheel so the chain can do some 5 full revolutions, so the wax gets on the surfaces of the chain as rust prevention.
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Post by thefinn on Jan 12, 2019 17:28:04 GMT -7
The reason/theory to why warm is that the wax melts a bit and that helps it seek into the small crevasses. Honestly i dont think youll notice any difference anywhere, its like the debate wether oil should be changed warm, hot or cold. The engine/chain will fail for other reasons much before your technique makes it fail.
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Post by thefinn on Jan 12, 2019 17:30:58 GMT -7
One last thing, for cleaning the chain, once a year i use an old soft bristle toothbrush. If it doesnt harm your gums it sure doesnt harm your O-rings either unless you really force it in there. It also fits nicely between the plates so you can get the links nice and clean.
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Post by RedAndBlack on Jan 12, 2019 17:39:16 GMT -7
I don't think it matters as much as frequency does. Most riders don't lube their chain enough. I do between 300-500 miles. All my chains Outlast expectation. Always do cold application.
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redgecko59
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Registered: May 6, 2017 6:21:43 GMT -7
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Post by redgecko59 on Jan 12, 2019 17:44:43 GMT -7
I only use WD40 on my chain, no other lube at all.
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Registered: Apr 25, 2024 4:57:14 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2019 23:26:43 GMT -7
its like the debate wether oil should be changed warm, hot or cold. Hey, hope it's not. Ha ha. Oil should always be changed hot, to avoid sludge forming on your oil pan . One last thing, for cleaning the chain, once a year i use an old soft bristle toothbrush. If it doesnt harm your gums it sure doesnt harm your O-rings either unless you really force it in there. It also fits nicely between the plates so you can get the links nice and clean. That's an excellent suggestion; thank you. For now, with only 413 miles, what I did should be enough; looks like new. Next time will do that. I don't think it matters as much as frequency does. Most riders don't lube their chain enough. I do between 300-500 miles. All my chains Outlast expectation. Always do cold application. Perfect. Will lube it tomorrow morning. Is spraying the top of the chain on the bottom run enough? And should I spray the entire chain first, then spin the wheel another chain revolution, then clean excess with a rag? Or spray then clean each section (without spinning the wheel), to avoid making a mess? Just want to know the best method, since I used to just clean it with WD-40, like Redgecko59. I only use WD40 on my chain, no other lube at all. Good to hear somebody else does what I used to do. Ha ha. It's been a while since I owned another bike with a chain. I sold them all with less than 10K miles, and never needed a new chain. I plan to keep this one longer, so will give lubing with Tyrox a try, and see what happens. If that also makes a flinging mess, will revert back to your method . Thank you all for your great help. Enjoy the rest of your weekend. Weather turned to crap (again!), so no riding tomorrow. Will lube the chain, and adjust it (and align it perfectly) as well. And next time I use it, will change the factory oil, even though will have less than 500 miles. Want it ready for the Hill Country in late February.
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Post by thefinn on Jan 13, 2019 4:51:24 GMT -7
I do the whole chain at once. Lube the whole chain and then wipe the whole chain.
Try to avoid getting wax on the link tubes as those are what in my experience cause fling. When wiping get your rag invetween there too.
There will always be a bit of fling, that is sadly in my experience inevitable.
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Post by RedAndBlack on Jan 13, 2019 16:11:19 GMT -7
I would get a good chain wax, like Bel Ray super clean. As long as you don't jump on the bike immediately and let it set for 5-15 minutes, it won't fling. It also sprays on white so you can see where you got it.
As far as method, just spray top down into the areas where each link joins. Since the wax sprays on liquidy, the spray and the flexing of the chain as you turn the wheel should spread it across the correct areas. You could also spray bottom up, but I just feel like that's excess and will cause a mess.
After, I just take a rag and clean off the excess on the outside of the chain usually just one chain revolution. Clean your wheel or anything else that mightve gotten sprayed.
Do a full cleaning with degreeaser every 1000-2000 miles depending on what kind of riding you do. Reapply wax anytime the chain comes in contact with water.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2019 12:06:17 GMT -7
I would get a good chain wax, like Bel Ray super clean. As long as you don't jump on the bike immediately and let it set for 5-15 minutes, it won't fling. It also sprays on white so you can see where you got it. As far as method, just spray top down into the areas where each link joins. Since the wax sprays on liquidy, the spray and the flexing of the chain as you turn the wheel should spread it across the correct areas. You could also spray bottom up, but I just feel like that's excess and will cause a mess. After, I just take a rag and clean off the excess on the outside of the chain usually just one chain revolution. Clean your wheel or anything else that mightve gotten sprayed. Do a full cleaning with degreeaser every 1000-2000 miles depending on what kind of riding you do. Reapply wax anytime the chain comes in contact with water. EXCELLENT POST! Thanks a lot for taking the time to write that, for us chain newbies out there . I think the Tyrox synthetic chain wax I bought should be very comparable to what you suggested; it reportedly has the characteristics you mentioned. Going to do this today. Have a great week gang.
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