Engine trouble warning light is on, brand new fz10

Hey folks, appropriate time to comment on this issue, since I was also affected by it. I was forced to dig deeper, since my dealer told me they had no scan tool for a month. Found a lot of information on other Yamaha FZ/MT forums, since many other bikes have the same EXUP valve. My first step was to order a Yamaha OBDII adapter ($30 shipped on eBay. I suggest you do the same), to read the code, and it was EXUP code P0476. So let's start. First of all, there's NO stuck open or stuck closed EXUP codes folks; it's just code P0476, which could be either of those 2 things, plus many more, as described in the service manual. If your bike is new, the likely culprit is the very common (but unknown to most of you here) '7K-rpm EXUP fault'... which is NOT covered in the service manual, surprisingly. So most dealers not familiar with it tear into the bikes replacing parts, and by accident 'fixing' the issue when the cables are adjusted properly. Anyway, I immediately suspected that issue, since I got it after momentarily exceeding 7K rpm for the first time. What happens is at 7K rpm, the ECU calls for a fully open valve, and in all of those bikes (and mine), the return cable is too tight from the factory, and the motor binds when the valve needs to be kept open, triggering the code. On a new bike, there's no way the valve can be stuck FYI, but I found out by accident a very easy way to test the motor and valve with no special tools : Remove the cap near the exhaust can, which is held by 3 black hex bolts. The valve is fully open by default, so you want to close it. It'll be somewhat hard to close with your thumb and index fingers, but for a guy should be no problem. Go ahead and force it closed (counterclockwise) about 1/4 turn (until it hits the stop). If you can't, use a wrench or socket on the nut on top. Once closed (it'll stay there), simply turn the ignition on, and if you immediately hear the whirring sound of the servo motor opening it, that means servo motor is perfectly fine. And if you don't get another CEL, it means the sensor is also fine (like it was my case), and the issue is cable adjustment. I highly suggest to clear the code before the test so you know for certain it's a cable adjustment issue. If you don't want to mess with it, just tell your dealer to check that first, before tearing into your bike, and having to unnecessarily replace any parts. Here's how to fix the cable adjustment: On my bike (and probably yours), it was the return cable, but it could be either one, or both, if an immediate CEL occurs before venturing to 7K rpm. You just want to adjust the tighter cable to the same tension as the looser one, with the adjustment 'wheels' near the rear brake reservoir. In my case, the pull (right) cable could easily be pushed to touch the inside of the line it slides into. The return cable was super tight, so I simply relaxed it to match the other, as per the service manual. To know which wheel is which cable, look at the cable holder at the valve: one is black, and the other 'metal'. The adjusters are also the same, so you know which to use. To relax the cable, turn the adjuster clockwise, to shorten the sleeve and relax the cable (apply logic here). I had to do about 3 full turns, as an FYI. The service manual is very vague, only saying it has to have tension but not too much, and the other cable has to be the same, in case you need to adjust both, but I suggest to just match the tighter one to the looser one, and that should solve the issue permanently, like in my case. If somebody else gets this code, it takes 10 minutes to fix now that you know what to do . Hope this helps gang.