i don't know if i'm mis remembering, but I think you said you measured from the top of the chain at its highest point to the bottom of the chain at its lowest point (or bottom, but always using top OR bottom but not both). If I am remembering correctly, that is why it would feel tight while it's in spec. I could be mistaken though.
Last Edit: Oct 19, 2018 10:46:05 GMT -7 by achrista
Could you check yours on the side stand (cold) and tell me what you have? Thanks man. And I agree with you that a bit loose is better than tight, which is exactly why I'm thinking of leaving it as it is right now (about 32mm). I also agree hot or cold shouldn't make a difference, but that's why I also asked Scuba77 for his numbers, to see who's assuming right. He he.
Well, did a lot of research on exactly how much force you need to apply to the chain, and absolutely ZERO info. Saw a bunch of videos hoping to find some info, and in all of them except one the techs/people doing the checking just pushed the chain up and down with basically zero force, like if using your pinkie. Just one dude advertising the Motion Pro chain adjusting tool (not the chain alignment one) put a little more force than the others, but not anywhere close to what I was doing. I'd like of find a specific amount of force (like in lbs) to apply to the chain, but without it, will change my strategy and play it safe. Using that method, I only get 3/8", instead of 1-1/4", so quite a bit tight. And it actually feels tight, so logic dictates very little force is the correct method. So my new strategy is to adjust it at the minimum amount but without a doubt I'm at the minimum amount, so 20mm with my pinkie. I'm about halfway now. I did a full turn (6/6), so will back out the screws 2/6 of a turn and recheck. Will also measure from swingarm pivot to rear axle at both sides to check alignment, but will order the MotionPro chain alignment tool to make that easier.
Post by peripateticmike on Oct 21, 2018 10:49:23 GMT -7
Been adjusting chains for 30+ years. I measure at the rivet center. Move the chain up until some slight resistance is felt once the actual weight of the chain is overcome, measure. Then let it fall with its own weight, and measure. That's the way I've always done it, I've never had a problem with chain/sprocket wear. No real need to overthink it.
It needs to be pushed UP and DOWN, according to the manual, and every adjusting video I've ever seen (I'll do it that way). It's a simple procedure, so I wasn't 'overthinking' anything; just was looking for a very critical aspect of the procedure: HOW MUCH FORCE to use. Anyway, thank you for specifying the method to check the tension, which is what I was looking for. It only makes sense, since I know my chain is tight right now, and only easy tension yields an out of spec measurement, so that is the correct method. Will redo it now, backing 1/2 a turn out of the full turn I initially did, and go from there. With your method, you'd always be on the loose side, but that's okay, and much better than tight. I want to be within specs, and going very easy on the tension with 20mm of slack will put me there for sure. Since it's a new chain, will stretch more for sure, and don't want to be adjusting it after every ride . Take care.
EDIT: Just finished the job. Ended up with 19mm with half turn, so backed it out another 1/6 turn, and ended up with a final 22mm slack (with the pinkie method ), so left it there. In total, only tightened the chain by 2/6 turns (or 1/3) from the factory, so it wasn't as badly adjusted as I thought... but that was still a lot of adjustment for 38 miles, so hopefully most of the stretching is done. Anyway, wanted to do the adjustment in increments of 1/6 turns to do both sides exactly the same, and to keep the factory alignment. However, since new, the hash marks on the swingarm don't align perfectly since new (and left them the same now). The right side block has a very sharp 90º edge, and it's exactly in the middle of the first hash mark. But the chain-side block has a rounded edge (harder to judge), but it's definitely past the first hash mark, about 1/2 to 3/4mm into the second. I'm trusting the factory aligned the wheel better than the swingarm, so I'm leaving it the same, but is that a good assumption? Or would you align the adjusting blocks? Finally, why the hell didn't Yamaha make the other block with a sharp edge where the hash marks are measured? Baffles the mind. I'm thinking of ordering a MotionPro chain adjusting tool, but doubt it can be mounted on our bike. For starters, the stupid chain guard requires the wheel to be removed to remove the 4mm hex bolt in front of the sprocket. In addition, I think that weird protruding ring would be in the way too, so it'd have to be using the hash marks, or keeping the factory positon of the bolts, which is what I'm doing now. Curious of other opinions. Thanks.
Last Edit: Oct 21, 2018 15:26:04 GMT -7 by elptxjc