jezza
New Member
Posts: 8
Registered: Jul 13, 2020 5:24:33 GMT -7
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Post by jezza on Sept 1, 2020 12:59:08 GMT -7
Using the drill, job done in about 15 seconds! Had plenty of time to play around as the shims I need are out of stock and have to come to the UK from Holland. I could have walked there and picked them up faster! Damn Covid!! 🤬
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ramage
New Member
Posts: 21
Likes: 11
Registered: Feb 5, 2018 10:53:59 GMT -7
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Post by ramage on Jun 8, 2021 23:44:38 GMT -7
Reviving an old thread here to help the next guy.
I just did the full 24k service, valve adjustment, air filter, spark plugs, radiator flush and all. I've never taken this bike to a shop and done all of the work myself since I've had it at 1,500 miles. I found the cam chain tensioner installation to be....easy honestly. Here is how I did it following the method on service manual pages 5-20 and 5-21: 1. Grab a 4" C clamp (the screw threaded type) 2. Put the chain tensioner inside with light pressure and set it on a table 3. screw the plunger with your left hand and continue to add tension to the clamp at the same time with your other hand. If the clamp binds up, loosen up the pressure on the clamp and rotate the plunger more until you feel it give and compress then continue. It only lets you compress so far per so many rotations. Go slow. 4. When the plunger is all the way compressed, the top steel ring spring clip thing can be pinched by hand to settle into the inside groove of the plunger (you can compress the plunger too far, backup if you need to) You'll notice there is also a groove on the inside of the housing, the clip gets wedged in between these grooves and locks the chain tensioner. I had to fiddle with that for about 30 seconds before it stuck. I just sat there pinching the clip ring for a few seconds before it decided to stay. 5. Install into bike with loctite, rotate crank clockwise a small amount and bam, should be unlocked and chain tensioned. You can double check by feeling to see if there is any slack in the chain
The previous thread entries were having problems getting the plunger to stay down for the install, it's all about getting that clip into the right groove as described in the service manual. Easy peasy.
Like everyone else, my exhuast valves were WAY tight. only .08mm clearance on some. Some of the intake valves were perfect and were left alone. In total I needed 7x 1.80mm valve shims and a few other similar sizes. I bought a shim kit variety pack but still had to go buy 4 more shims from a local shop since the kit only came with 3 in each size.
This job took a VERY LONG TIME for me. It's not difficult, but it takes patience and is tedious. If I do this again I want to try to zip tie my sprockets to the chain before I take the tensioner off so I don't have to take the cams all the way out of the engine. I saw a guy on youtube who could get them pivoted just enough out of the way to get the shims out. I thought that was genius. If you don't do that, you have to do the timing sequence and getting the timing set up was a pain because the timing marks are SO HARD to see even with a flashlight. The timing marks on the sprockets also have to be seen with a mirror on the intake side. You can see the exhaust side sprocket timing marks by looking from where the radiator was. I do recommend taking the radiator off, you should be doing a coolant flush anyways if you're doing a 24K valve job.
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Post by sdshawn on Jun 10, 2021 18:00:32 GMT -7
So I scaned the thread and from what can see its a good idea to check them around 12k miles to be safe is how I'm feeling maybe go ahead and do plugs at the same time for good preventative medicine? I ride her hard when I ride and want to keep her running like a raped ape.
Next question I always work on my motors my self but if it's a major deal I might just have it done local dealer , I have trust issues with the love and time I take vs flag time a dealer.
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ramage
New Member
Posts: 21
Likes: 11
Registered: Feb 5, 2018 10:53:59 GMT -7
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Post by ramage on Jun 11, 2021 12:46:22 GMT -7
I think checking them early is a good idea. I would also recommend shimming them to the highest side of the valve tolerance without going over in anticipation of them becoming tighter. I had 4 track days on this bike and countless WOT canyon days as well at this point. However, the last 7,000 miles have all been chill highway riding. Who knows what the valves would have looked like at 24k of hard riding.
If you have experience working on motors this won't be the worst thing. The dealer will likely charge around $800 so decide for yourself what your time is worth.
If you're trying to bang it out in the shortest time span possible just make sure you have: both head cover gaskets, high tack gasket sealant, CCT gasket, engine assembly lube, C clamp vise, swivel socket for spark plugs, valve shim set, feeler gauges, new sparkplugs, loctite, a long set of L style metric allen keys (for the throttle body clamps), a small and large torque wrench (down to 7nm) and possibly new coolant unless you save what you take out. I think that covers everything assuming you already have a decent set of tools.
One more note on the C clamp vise, you'll need a rubber piece on the spinning side, and that's the side the plunger on the cam chain tensioner should be touching. Good luck!
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