theestate
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Post by theestate on Jan 20, 2020 21:14:21 GMT -7
Good. Glad to share what I have learned. I will put my notes together this weekend and post them. Changing the sparks plugs is no little thing. Ride on.
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2chanz
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Post by 2chanz on Jan 20, 2020 21:40:05 GMT -7
Good. Glad to share what I have learned. I will put my notes together this weekend and post them. Changing the sparks plugs is no little thing. Ride on. Thank you! My valves and plugs are coming up in 1K miles . Thank you so much for helping out! |
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theestate
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Post by theestate on Jan 25, 2020 20:37:54 GMT -7
Here are useful service manual pages 3-5 to 3-9 Adjust valve clearance
5-9 Remove cylinder head cover - consider replacing item 8 - head cover gasket 5-10 Remove camshafts 5-11 Remove timing chain and guide (1 through 7) - consider replacing item 3 - timing chain cover gasket 5-13 Removing camshafts
Now you are here
5-16 Checking timing chain tensioner (refer also to 5-20, 5-21) - installing the tensioner was and is very difficult. Second time checking valves I purchased a valve spring compressor as shown on page 5-17. This did not help. The trick is getting the 'worm' screw (inner most cylinder) to stay in place in order to press in the plunger. The worm screw cannot pushed in - it needs to twist in by hand. It will not push/twist in by pushing/twisting the plunger. I hope for a brief moment of friction to hold the worm screw long enough to set the plunger in place. Try this -- hold the worm in place with a clamp or the valve spring compression tool if you have one. Put a drop or two of water where the worm screw/cylinder meet. Put this assembly in the freezer until the water is frozen. Hurry and assemble the timing chain tensioner before the ice melts. Got a better way? I want to know. 5-18 Install timing chain cover 5-19 Installing camshafts
Before removing camshafts I mark the position of the timing chain on sprockets (including sprocket item 9, page 5-11) with a marker for added assurance of getting the chain and camshafts properly aligned. To keep the timing chain from jumping on the sprockets when installing the camshafts, I tighten/lock the timing chain to the camshaft sprockets with two zip-ties on each sprocket. (Camshaft sprockets have holes to put the zip-ties through.)
Shims/valve pads are 9.48mm outer diameter. Popular replacement sizes of my past valve check are 1.75 and 1.80 for intake, 1.95 and 2.00 for exhaust. I use a breaker bar with a 19mm socket to turn the crank while checking valve clearance. Too finicky moving the pistons through the cylinders with a smaller tool. Needed a flashlight to read marks on the 'generator rotor.' I drain and remove the radiator - looks too difficult leaving it on. Take note how cables pass over radiator. A 16-cube ice tray works good for keeping valve pads in order like shown on page 3-8. I use engine assembly lube on moving parts. Putting the valve cover in place is tight. You will need a gasket glue to hold the head cover gasket in place while assembling. Think I used RTV silicone. Have a good set of feeler gauges to measure 0.0035 to 0.0102 inch or 0.09 to 0.26 mm. I have a spreadsheet that will calculate the replacement valve if interested. Takes me two days if I have all the parts. I am no mechanic but know it is done right.
Let me know if you need more help. I will be doing my valves mid to late February.
Ride on.
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2chanz
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Post by 2chanz on Jan 26, 2020 12:15:32 GMT -7
Omg, this is a godsend. I will review shortly and get back to you once I finish the job. Thank you thank you thank you!
I was very worried about doing this job due to the complexity of getting to the covers.
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2chanz
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Post by 2chanz on Feb 3, 2020 17:36:13 GMT -7
What shim kit size ranges did you guys get? 1.2-3.5mm? 1.2-4.0mm? 1.72-2.6mm?
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theestate
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Post by theestate on Feb 24, 2020 22:15:34 GMT -7
Valve update. Checked valve clearance again during February 2020. This is my third valve service. All valves within tolerance this time but adjusted some border valves to middle of specification range. 25,707 miles. Ride on.
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mrcdharwood
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Post by mrcdharwood on Feb 25, 2020 6:38:51 GMT -7
Great post. Very helpful.
I'm guessing you were able to remove the cylinder head cover and do all this with the engine still fitted?
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2chanz
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Post by 2chanz on Feb 25, 2020 11:59:38 GMT -7
Valve update. Checked valve clearance again during February 2020. This is my third valve service. All valves within tolerance this time but adjusted some border valves to middle of specification range. 25,707 miles. Ride on. I'm at 23,400ish miles right now. Dreading it LOL |
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2chanz
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Post by 2chanz on Feb 25, 2020 12:00:11 GMT -7
Great post. Very helpful. I'm guessing you were able to remove the cylinder head cover and do all this with the engine still fitted? Yes you should be able to access spark plugs and valves without removing the engine from the frame. |
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mrcdharwood
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Post by mrcdharwood on Feb 26, 2020 10:31:46 GMT -7
Yeah I've done plugs but there was not a lot of room in there. To take the cover off and get to the valves, hook the timing chain and take all the measurements all seems impossible 😂
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theestate
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Post by theestate on Mar 2, 2020 8:40:00 GMT -7
Great post. Very helpful. I'm guessing you were able to remove the cylinder head cover and do all this with the engine still fitted? Perhaps you mean the valve cover. Thought the engine would need to removed to get the valve cover off. After struggling awhile, the valve cover fairy comes, waves her magic wrench, and the valve cover falls off to my utter amazement. Valve cover removal/installation is tight. The rest is workable. Small fingers are an advantage - which i don't have. Ride on. |
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csmhog
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Retired Army, now certified full time MC tech. Love my job!!
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Post by csmhog on Apr 4, 2020 1:59:14 GMT -7
Anyone know the diameter of the shims for the MT10?? 7.5mm or 9.5mm. Thx. Please disregard, I didn't realize there was a second page to this thread and found my answer.
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jezza
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Post by jezza on Aug 8, 2020 12:51:34 GMT -7
Just thought I’d add my two cents worth here.
I’ve got a 2016 model with 7500 miles on the clock.
Bought it from a retired gent here in the UK at 6500 miles. I noticed a bad sputtering/tapping noise last week from (sounds like) cylinder 1. Stripped down and checked clearances and found all exhaust valves below 0.20mm and two intake valves below tightest spec 0.09mm.
Looks like the factory might be pretty blasé about setting up the clearances I reckon or the old fella I bought it off sat on the Rev limiter a lot?
Now I’m debating if I should have the head off to check the seats etc.
Does anyone have any ideas on a simple valve seat pressure test that I could do without removing the cylinder head?
That would be much appreciated.
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2chanz
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Post by 2chanz on Aug 8, 2020 13:17:39 GMT -7
I'm not sure about the pressure test but we all experienced much tighter exhaust clearances and it seems the problem wasn't fixed until the 2018 models came out. Be careful not to drop the shims into the oil gutters! That happened to me recently and I had to take the whole bike into a shop for them to tear the motor apart to find the shim. Still couldn't find it and I couldn't find it in my garage either so crossing my fingers it dropped out during transport or I lost it in a shop vac/oil drain pan (which I went through already). Valves just isn't my forte and I learnt my lesson just to pay an expert to get it done.
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2chanz
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Post by 2chanz on Aug 8, 2020 13:22:12 GMT -7
Anyone know the diameter of the shims for the MT10?? 7.5mm or 9.5mm. Thx. Please disregard, I didn't realize there was a second page to this thread and found my answer. I used Partzilla to order the OEM shims. Forgot what my research said about the size. |
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jezza
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Post by jezza on Aug 8, 2020 13:51:50 GMT -7
Cheers for the heads up 2Chanze
Valves not really my forte either but needs must brother.
I just found that there is a leak down test that can be done but just need to buy the actual test equipment.
You check each cylinder at TDC (top dead centre) and compare them.
The 16/17 models must have soft valve seats, valve heads, shims or rockers then I reckon. Doubt it’s the shims though.
I wonder which parts have been superseded on the parts list.
I don’t really want to drop the motor to check the valve seats if at all possible and just hoping that it’s clearances making the noise and not a big or small end bearing on the way out.
The geezer I bought it off had de-catted the bike and not flashed the ecu so it would have been running lean as a steak from a cow with an eating disorder?
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2chanz
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Post by 2chanz on Aug 11, 2020 17:45:20 GMT -7
Anyone know the diameter of the shims for the MT10?? 7.5mm or 9.5mm. Thx. Please disregard, I didn't realize there was a second page to this thread and found my answer. Just checked my notes and they are 9.48mm, I referenced it from the shop manual if I remember correctly. |
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2chanz
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Post by 2chanz on Aug 11, 2020 17:50:07 GMT -7
Cheers for the heads up 2Chanze Valves not really my forte either but needs must brother. I just found that there is a leak down test that can be done but just need to buy the actual test equipment. You check each cylinder at TDC (top dead centre) and compare them. The 16/17 models must have soft valve seats, valve heads, shims or rockers then I reckon. Doubt it’s the shims though. I wonder which parts have been superseded on the parts list. I don’t really want to drop the motor to check the valve seats if at all possible and just hoping that it’s clearances making the noise and not a big or small end bearing on the way out. The geezer I bought it off had de-catted the bike and not flashed the ecu so it would have been running lean as a steak from a cow with an eating disorder? Thanks Jezza, I try to help wherever I can. This forum doesn't have enough traffic to create a dependable knowledge database. I just spoke to my mechanic today and he found the shim way deep between the top end and bottom end, bizarre accident because of my mistake. I am very thankful he did. My bike is all stock (in terms of powertrain upgrades) except for the Manual Cam Chain Tensioner and a Pro-race GP mesh exhaust (from UK). My has a slight tick but I disregarded it as the natural Yamaha tick. Will try to report what it sounds like when I get the bike back. |
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jezza
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Post by jezza on Sept 1, 2020 12:47:50 GMT -7
Hi guys
I’m a bit of a technophobe so hope I have replied to this post correctly.
I have, just tonight found I believe the best way to set the cam chain tensioner. After many hours playing with it I have it sussed.
You need to put the body of the cct in the vice, then have a drill with an attachment with rubber to sit on the plunger. Have the drill set to Low speed and push quite lightly downward and spin the drill. You will find the plunger screws itself down and the circlip finds its groove.
Make sure the circlip is seated by slowly releasing pressure from the drill.
Be careful and “DO NOT!” point the plunger at your face!!
If I knew how to upload a photo or video I would show you guys. So if you know direct me and I will do it.
Hope this helps you out as I couldn’t find anything, anywhere on the web on how to do this. 😉🤘👌
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2chanz
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Post by 2chanz on Sept 1, 2020 12:49:55 GMT -7
Hi guys I’m a bit of a technophobe so hope I have replied to this post correctly. I have, just tonight found I believe the best way to set the cam chain tensioner. After many hours playing with it I have it sussed. You need to put the body of the cct in the vice, then have a drill with an attachment with rubber to sit on the plunger. Have the drill set to Low speed and push quite lightly downward and spin the drill. You will find the plunger screws itself down and the circlip finds its groove. Make sure the circlip is seated by slowly releasing pressure from the drill. Be careful and “DO NOT!” point the plunger at your face!! If I knew how to upload a photo or video I would show you guys. So if you know direct me and I will do it. Hope this helps you out as I couldn’t find anything, anywhere on the web on how to do this. 😉🤘👌 Good idea! Valve spring compressor tools mounted in a vice works well too |
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