Kameo
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Post by Kameo on Feb 17, 2018 13:27:02 GMT -7
35 degrees Celsius afternoon. Rode 300 km's and pulled up to park.
Kicked down the side stand and engine still running. Kicked up and down for a second time, still running. Then on 3rd attempt it worked.
Parked in the sun for 30 minutes.
Tried starting her up but not happening. Not side stand related as it's trying to start. After a couple of failed attempts she finally got going. This fuel pump issue has happened before but not as bad. Same scenario when parked in the sun on a HOT day. The side stand issue is the first time I've had it occur.
Are these heat related problems worth getting sorted?
ps.at what point does your side stand shut down your bike? 1. While coming down 2. At the very end point
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Post by RedAndBlack on Feb 17, 2018 23:59:42 GMT -7
Could be your side stand sensor causing both. I would clean it, check the alignment, and grease it and see if the problem fixes. Good luck and report back what happens.
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Post by evitzee on Feb 18, 2018 8:23:19 GMT -7
I always put the transmission in neutral before putting the stand down so it is non issue for me. Not sure why you are putting stand down while in gear, that's not good practice. Clean and regrease the switch, sounds like it is sticking.
Sounds like you may have vapor lock, next time it happens open the fuel cap and see if that solves the issue. May be hot weather issue.
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daveinwoodland
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Post by daveinwoodland on Feb 18, 2018 9:02:12 GMT -7
I always put the transmission in neutral before putting the stand down so it is non issue for me. Not sure why you are putting stand down while in gear, that's not good practice. Clean and regrease the switch, sounds like it is sticking. Sounds like you may have vapor lock, next time it happens open the fuel cap and see if that solves the issue. May be hot weather issue. Disagree completely. Parking in first gear on many surfaces keeps the bike from rolling on an incline and is much safer than parking in nuetral. Been doing it for more years then I'm betting most people are of age on this forum, before your kickstand would cut the motor we used to either just hit the ignition or kill switch back in the day to do the same thing. Using the sidestand as a interrupt is completely acceptable.
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Post by evitzee on Feb 18, 2018 9:36:17 GMT -7
If you want to park it in gear that's personal preference, I've been riding 42 years and always have it in neutral. Never a problem except on the rare occasion if I need to park on decline, which I try to avoid. But why use the side stand or kill switch to turn the engine off? Use the key. Many batteries have gone dead by people using the side stand or kill switch and forgetting to turn the key off.
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daveinwoodland
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Post by daveinwoodland on Feb 18, 2018 11:09:10 GMT -7
If you want to park it in gear that's personal preference, I've been riding 42 years and always have it in neutral. Never a problem except on the rare occasion if I need to park on decline, which I try to avoid. But why use the side stand or kill switch to turn the engine off? Use the key. Many batteries have gone dead by people using the side stand or kill switch and forgetting to turn the key off. If people are that inattentive then I would prefer they stick to four wheels. Some food for thought by the way: motorbikewriter.com/how-to-park-your-motorcycle/answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110614064654AASI036
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Post by evitzee on Feb 18, 2018 14:15:47 GMT -7
Personal choice, I choose neutral. Although center stands aren't as prevalent these days you almost had to use neutral to get it on and off the stand.
But you can't dismiss the drained battery issue by forgetting to turn off the key, inattentive maybe but the rider is still screwed with a dead battery, perhaps away from home or help. I guarantee there are a few riders on this forum who have made that mistake, many as newbies. Use the key and that solves the problem. In my view the side stand and kill switch are safety switches that shouldn't come into play in normal operation. Just one rider's opinion.
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Post by achrista on Feb 18, 2018 18:09:24 GMT -7
I personally use the side stand to shut off the engine, the cutoff switch rarely, and the key almost never. That said I'm one of the donkeys who forgets their keys in the bike and it's cost me 3 batteries over my riding career. Maybe I'll start using the keys.
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Kameo
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Post by Kameo on Feb 18, 2018 18:23:45 GMT -7
Side stand has its perks. A mate of mine dropped his bike on himself twice. Forgot to put the side stand down.
I’d personally rather change a battery then fix a damaged bike.
We all have busy/forgetful moments.
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Kameo
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Post by Kameo on Feb 18, 2018 18:26:16 GMT -7
The old forums had a thread on probs with fuel pumps on the 10’s when the bikes are left out in the heat of a warm day.
Also can someone confirm the cut off point for the side stand? Is it when perpendicular with the bike?
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ikranmakto
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Post by ikranmakto on Feb 18, 2018 21:03:12 GMT -7
Another one here who always puts a bike in neutral and turns it off with a key, have done since year dot. At 61, I also never learnt to ride a motorcycle from any magazine articles, it's whatever you're accustomed too, there is no rule. @kameo , seems like you live in my part of the world and I've never had an issue with the temperature affecting the MT10, apart from a burnt arse getting on a hot seat. I'm going with RedAndBlack on this one and also reckon its most likely the kickstand switch sensor.
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Kameo
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Post by Kameo on Feb 19, 2018 2:01:02 GMT -7
RedAndBlack ikranmakto Thanks for the info....il likely take it in for a fix. Gave it a good clean this morning but the side stand problem happened again today..... Pushing 14,000km's now. 1. Fuel pump issues occurred 3-4 times in 14 months (heat related) 2. Side stand issues occurred 2 times (appears to occur when it's stinking hot) happened for the first time one day after Yamaha fitted my quickshifter - very close priximity to the switch? 3. Fuel cap lock mechanism is now also perm stuffed. Fuel pump issue is not related to side stand. When side stand is down the bike won't even attempt to start. When the fuel pump issue surfaces the bikes trying to start but struggles to get a drink.
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Post by evitzee on Feb 19, 2018 6:50:54 GMT -7
What's the issue with the fuel cap being "perm stuffed"? I suspect that is the cause of your fueling issue.
You should shoot a little WD-40 into the switch and then put a little lithium grease on the switch plunger. It's a pretty simple setup.
Doubt if the QS is causing the problem but check the connections in that area in case something was disturbed.
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kratosfz10
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Post by kratosfz10 on Feb 19, 2018 13:29:46 GMT -7
If opening the gas cap helps (for the heat related cranking without starting), might mean that the vent hose from the tank is pinched.
Have you had the tank off previously? If so, might be worth a check.
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Kameo
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Post by Kameo on Feb 19, 2018 20:44:34 GMT -7
If opening the gas cap helps (for the heat related cranking without starting), might mean that the vent hose from the tank is pinched. Have you had the tank off previously? If so, might be worth a check. Next time it happens il check. Never had the tank off myself. What's the issue with the fuel cap being "perm stuffed"? I suspect that is the cause of your fueling issue. You should shoot a little WD-40 into the switch and then put a little lithium grease on the switch plunger. It's a pretty simple setup. Doubt if the QS is causing the problem but check the connections in that area in case something was disturbed. Re. 'Perm stuffed' - I've gotta stuff around with it to open n close it. Mechanisms become rock solid stiff. Opened it up today and cleaned it out with WD40 and it's opening n closing like new. Kinda felt like it was/had seized up. The fuel cap cap is one of the most used (opened n closed) components on my 10 😜 Fuel / heat problem happened way back when I got her and on a very hot day. Parked out in the sun while at work. Then when I went to start it I had problems but only when she's parked out in the heat. definitely not related to fuel cap or side stand switch. Checked connections, all look good. Even though the side stand switch appears to be working ok most of the time....I feel like the cut-off point for the stand has moved from a. previously....while opening the stand to b. now....Only when it's fully opened I might be wrong but could someone validate this for me?
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ikranmakto
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Post by ikranmakto on Feb 19, 2018 22:18:00 GMT -7
Even though the side stand switch appears to be working ok most of the time....I feel like the cut-off point for the stand has moved from a. previously....while opening the stand to b. now....Only when it's fully opened I might be wrong but could someone validate this for me? Kameo, my stand is about 3/4 extended before it shuts the motor off. Never noticed the side stand kill point before as I always use the key, but now I know.
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guywithfz10
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Post by guywithfz10 on Feb 20, 2018 1:10:37 GMT -7
I wouldnt worry about the bike being hard to start when its very hot. My previous zx6r and my friend's rsv4 do the same thing. When the bike is super hot, it takes a bit longer for it to crank up and start.
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Kameo
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Post by Kameo on Feb 20, 2018 1:34:35 GMT -7
Even though the side stand switch appears to be working ok most of the time....I feel like the cut-off point for the stand has moved from a. previously....while opening the stand to b. now....Only when it's fully opened I might be wrong but could someone validate this for me? Kameo, my stand is about 3/4 extended before it shuts the motor off. Never noticed the side stand kill point before as I always use the key, but now I know. Thanks for that. I noticed my cut off had moved to fully extended after the issues began with the side stand, one day after getting the quick shifter installed by the dealer. I’m left wondering if there is some kind of adjustment that can be made and if so could mine have moved too far back? result being that when it’s really hot there is zero allowance and so I gotta kick it hard to make contact.
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sam07
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Post by sam07 on Feb 20, 2018 5:29:19 GMT -7
Kameo, my stand is about 3/4 extended before it shuts the motor off. Never noticed the side stand kill point before as I always use the key, but now I know. Thanks for that. I noticed my cut off had moved to fully extended after the issues began with the side stand, one day after getting the quick shifter installed by the dealer. I’m left wondering if there is some kind of adjustment that can be made and if so could mine have moved too far back? result being that when it’s really hot there is zero allowance and so I gotta kick it hard to make contact. I would remove the kick stand switch and inspect if the position can be manipulated. Operate the switch while measuring current on a volt meter. I’ve noticed a good amount of crap that could build up from road grime or excessive chain lube. If overlubed it will run right down the kickstand. Just FYI. I worked for an oem for 8 years and sometimes how customers use the product is not what was intended. For example the contacts and tumbler for the ignition switch are designed to be turned hundreds of thousands of times removing specific paths of current to shut off your bike. The side stand switch is to prevent starting in gear as a safety switch not acted like an ignition switch. Good luck!
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Kameo
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Post by Kameo on Feb 20, 2018 15:11:41 GMT -7
Thanks for that. I noticed my cut off had moved to fully extended after the issues began with the side stand, one day after getting the quick shifter installed by the dealer. I’m left wondering if there is some kind of adjustment that can be made and if so could mine have moved too far back? result being that when it’s really hot there is zero allowance and so I gotta kick it hard to make contact. I would remove the kick stand switch and inspect if the position can be manipulated. Operate the switch while measuring current on a volt meter. I’ve noticed a good amount of crap that could build up from road grime or excessive chain lube. If overlubed it will run right down the kickstand. Just FYI. I worked for an oem for 8 years and sometimes how customers use the product is not what was intended. For example the contacts and tumbler for the ignition switch are designed to be turned hundreds of thousands of times removing specific paths of current to shut off your bike. The side stand switch is to prevent starting in gear as a safety switch not acted like an ignition switch. Good luck! Yep loads of lube ends up in this exact location, something I'm aware of and I keep it pretty clean. Bike stand goes up and down regardless if it's being used to shut off the bike. If I understand you correctly, what your saying is... if the bike is already off or in neutral the side stand switch won't receive current and therefore should last longer...? "sometimes how customers use the product is not what was intended" - very true.
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