landmark518
Full Member
Posts: 217 
Likes: 103
|
Post by landmark518 on Jan 11, 2018 9:59:59 GMT -7
Can anyone provide detailed instructions on how to install an autoblipper kit? If this has been posted elsewhere on the Forum please direct me to the post. Assistance is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
|
|
Sponsored Ad
|
ek5425
New Member
Posts: 15
Likes: 6
Registered: Mar 20, 2017 1:57:53 GMT -7
|
Post by ek5425 on Jan 11, 2018 12:04:24 GMT -7
If it’s from FTECU, sport bike track gear has an excellent you tube video. It’s called “ FT ECU clutchless downshift kit install on a 15-17 Yamaha R1”. Definitely recommend subscribing to their channel. All their videos are great.
|
|
landmark518
Full Member
Posts: 217
Likes: 103
|
Post by landmark518 on Jan 12, 2018 9:00:39 GMT -7
If it’s from FTECU, sport bike track gear has an excellent you tube video. It’s called “ FT ECU clutchless downshift kit install on a 15-17 Yamaha R1”. Definitely recommend subscribing to their channel. All their videos are great. Yes, Thanks! I just came across the video. Already was a subscriber. Here is the link if anyone else is interested. |
|
wonger
New Member
Posts: 45
Likes: 11
Registered: Sept 25, 2017 19:43:46 GMT -7
|
Post by wonger on Jan 12, 2018 11:42:01 GMT -7
If it’s from FTECU, sport bike track gear has an excellent you tube video. It’s called “ FT ECU clutchless downshift kit install on a 15-17 Yamaha R1”. Definitely recommend subscribing to their channel. All their videos are great. Yes, Thanks! I just came across the video. Already was a subscriber. Here is the link if anyone else is interested. He's still on FB. I just bought a custom CF sprocket cover from him, that I'm not going to use because it's too nice!! |
|
bhilker0604
New Member
Posts: 41
Likes: 8
Registered: Feb 16, 2017 8:14:33 GMT -7
|
Post by bhilker0604 on May 25, 2019 5:27:35 GMT -7
I have the latest generation FTECU QS/Auto blipper and the install is different slightly. I sometimes can't downshift unless I let off the throttle while quickly downshifting. Half the time in 4th or 5th gear it will not downshift and my gear indicator shows -- instead of the gear.
I have reached out to FTECU and await a response. The tricky part in the install is the QSS and Auto blip sensors are 2 separate sensors that plug into the other leads coming off the FTECU sensor itself. I have tried reversing the connections but nothing shifts so I naturally reverse the connection of the 2 sensors and then the bike at least upshifts but 50/50 on successful downshifts...
|
|
Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Apr 18, 2024 22:48:14 GMT -7
|
Post by Deleted on May 26, 2019 21:22:27 GMT -7
At least on BMWs, the down QS doesn't work with any throttle whatsoever. You have to have it completely closed. That's to protect the tranny, so I assume the one in question is the same way, which is a good thing  . |
|
need2blower
New Member
Posts: 8
Likes: 7
Registered: Jun 16, 2019 10:01:09 GMT -7
|
Post by need2blower on Jun 16, 2019 10:12:49 GMT -7
I have the latest generation FTECU QS/Auto blipper and the install is different slightly. I sometimes can't downshift unless I let off the throttle while quickly downshifting. Half the time in 4th or 5th gear it will not downshift and my gear indicator shows -- instead of the gear. I have reached out to FTECU and await a response. The tricky part in the install is the QSS and Auto blip sensors are 2 separate sensors that plug into the other leads coming off the FTECU sensor itself. I have tried reversing the connections but nothing shifts so I naturally reverse the connection of the 2 sensors and then the bike at least upshifts but 50/50 on successful downshifts... You may have done the same installation error I did... I followed the r1 video posted above and it wasn't working just as you described. It worked every now and then but I think I was just getting lucky with the engine load in that it allowed for a clutchless shift (it wasn't really rev matching in my opinion). I searched harder online and found that you have to register an account with FtECU to actually view the real instructions. I downloaded the actual instructions and low and behold, you use the #2 ecu pin, not #4 like the R1's (and it's a whole different plug and pin for the euro bikes). The whole system works beautifully now and the ignition cut sound on the clutchless upshifts is addicting (think dual clutch AMG sound). The moral of the story is that even though these bikes are basically R1's, there are minor differences that need to be paid attention to when modifying them. I thought it was weird that ECU pin 4 had a plug in it instead of an actual wire like the R1. |
|
bigweb2001
New Member
Posts: 34
Likes: 13
Registered: Jan 8, 2017 10:00:06 GMT -7
|
Post by bigweb2001 on Jun 16, 2019 10:33:43 GMT -7
Not All Heroes Wear Capes....THANK YOU N2B
|
|
sruon
New Member
Posts: 18
Likes: 5
Registered: Jul 14, 2017 20:47:16 GMT -7
|
Post by sruon on Jun 28, 2019 10:28:57 GMT -7
I have the latest generation FTECU QS/Auto blipper and the install is different slightly. I sometimes can't downshift unless I let off the throttle while quickly downshifting. Half the time in 4th or 5th gear it will not downshift and my gear indicator shows -- instead of the gear. I have reached out to FTECU and await a response. The tricky part in the install is the QSS and Auto blip sensors are 2 separate sensors that plug into the other leads coming off the FTECU sensor itself. I have tried reversing the connections but nothing shifts so I naturally reverse the connection of the 2 sensors and then the bike at least upshifts but 50/50 on successful downshifts... You may have done the same installation error I did... I followed the r1 video posted above and it wasn't working just as you described. It worked every now and then but I think I was just getting lucky with the engine load in that it allowed for a clutchless shift (it wasn't really rev matching in my opinion). I searched harder online and found that you have to register an account with FtECU to actually view the real instructions. I downloaded the actual instructions and low and behold, you use the #2 ecu pin, not #4 like the R1's (and it's a whole different plug and pin for the euro bikes). The whole system works beautifully now and the ignition cut sound on the clutchless upshifts is addicting (think dual clutch AMG sound). The moral of the story is that even though these bikes are basically R1's, there are minor differences that need to be paid attention to when modifying them. I thought it was weird that ECU pin 4 had a plug in it instead of an actual wire like the R1. I'm plugged into pin #2, tried various rod angles and I'm still getting only 50% downshifts working. Wouldn't mind a picture of your rod angle just to make sure. Thanks |
|
face
New Member
Posts: 26
Likes: 8
Registered: Oct 19, 2017 15:08:03 GMT -7
|
Post by face on Jun 29, 2019 9:06:21 GMT -7
Sruon, I installed mine a few weeks ago and went gp style shifting with an unmolested, full length shift rod. Give that a whirl as it allows the linkage and shift rod to be about 90 degrees to each other, allowing for smooth shifts both ways. Has anyone also mentioned that GP shifting is fun as shit?!?!
|
|
sruon
New Member
Posts: 18
Likes: 5
Registered: Jul 14, 2017 20:47:16 GMT -7
|
Post by sruon on Jun 29, 2019 13:39:35 GMT -7
I tried GP shifting as well, wasn't any better. Tried with different linkage rods, still only getting 50% of the downshifts working. I'll probably swap it for the Translogic unit if FTECU support can't help.
|
|
face
New Member
Posts: 26
Likes: 8
Registered: Oct 19, 2017 15:08:03 GMT -7
|
Post by face on Jun 30, 2019 5:06:04 GMT -7
I’m sure you did but I’m just asking because I stumbled upon this when I did my install because it’s not clearly written. Did you make sure the white plugs from the harness are in correctly? I’d assume so if you’re getting at least 50% response from the unit
|
|
bigweb2001
New Member
Posts: 34
Likes: 13
Registered: Jan 8, 2017 10:00:06 GMT -7
|
Post by bigweb2001 on Jun 30, 2019 9:55:27 GMT -7
Hey guys, I messed up and need some help. Well I pulled the #2 pin out of the ECU and carefully tried to insert the green wire per the instructions. It was tough to see the "tab" they mention at the top of the wire, but I thought I had it up and inserted it into #2 hole. It wouldn't go all the way in, so I tried to pull it back out and:  ...that happened. Seems jammed in there and I don't want to make it worse so looking for any advice! Thanks.... |
|
need2blower
New Member
Posts: 8
Likes: 7
Registered: Jun 16, 2019 10:01:09 GMT -7
|
Post by need2blower on Jul 1, 2019 18:17:38 GMT -7
I’m sure you did but I’m just asking because I stumbled upon this when I did my install because it’s not clearly written. Did you make sure the white plugs from the harness are in correctly? I’d assume so if you’re getting at least 50% response from the unit As suggested above, swap the two smaller white plugs and see if it makes a difference. I have noticed that if the RPM's are low (like below 3k) it wont downshift, presumably because of the high load on the transmission - You're having constant problems downshifting with the RPM's higher than that? |
|
need2blower
New Member
Posts: 8
Likes: 7
Registered: Jun 16, 2019 10:01:09 GMT -7
|
Post by need2blower on Jul 1, 2019 18:23:44 GMT -7
Hey guys, I messed up and need some help. Well I pulled the #2 pin out of the ECU and carefully tried to insert the green wire per the instructions. It was tough to see the "tab" they mention at the top of the wire, but I thought I had it up and inserted it into #2 hole. It wouldn't go all the way in, so I tried to pull it back out and: ...that happened. Seems jammed in there and I don't want to make it worse so looking for any advice! Thanks.... Unfortunately, your only option is to get that pin out - You'll never fix that crimp with the pin inside there. You could try pushing it out from the front while pulling from the back with some small pliers or tweezers. If the pin is too mangled you'll have to get a new one and perform the proper crimp - It takes a special tool, not your ordinary automotive terminal crimp. Your other option is to cut the wire you removed with a few inches left on the pin and join that to the FT sensor with a good solder joint or butt splice - Just leave enough wire that you can connect it back to the stock wire if you ever want to remove the FT shifter. |
|
bigweb2001
New Member
Posts: 34
Likes: 13
Registered: Jan 8, 2017 10:00:06 GMT -7
|
Post by bigweb2001 on Jul 2, 2019 18:07:47 GMT -7
Thanks, I trailered it to the dealer and they didn't have time to take me in, but they did work lose the collar around the wires with a screwdriver, then the pin came out. Now I plan to take your advise on cutting the connector off of the original wire (#2) and soldering that to the autoblip wire. Then I'll insert that in (with that collar off).
Wish me luck!
|
|
arkenskooter
New Member
Posts: 34
Likes: 7
Registered: Mar 19, 2018 20:34:35 GMT -7
|
Post by arkenskooter on Jul 2, 2019 20:57:43 GMT -7
You may have done the same installation error I did... I followed the r1 video posted above and it wasn't working just as you described. It worked every now and then but I think I was just getting lucky with the engine load in that it allowed for a clutchless shift (it wasn't really rev matching in my opinion). I searched harder online and found that you have to register an account with FtECU to actually view the real instructions. I downloaded the actual instructions and low and behold, you use the #2 ecu pin, not #4 like the R1's (and it's a whole different plug and pin for the euro bikes). The whole system works beautifully now and the ignition cut sound on the clutchless upshifts is addicting (think dual clutch AMG sound). The moral of the story is that even though these bikes are basically R1's, there are minor differences that need to be paid attention to when modifying them. I thought it was weird that ECU pin 4 had a plug in it instead of an actual wire like the R1. I'm plugged into pin #2, tried various rod angles and I'm still getting only 50% downshifts working. Wouldn't mind a picture of your rod angle just to make sure. Thanks I am in the same boat with you. Just got the autoblipper installed today. Upshift works like butter! Downshifts work about 20% of the time. I didn`t really get to test it out on the highway yet though. I am chalking it down to me not knowing how to use the autoblipper for downshifting (this being my first experience with a downshifter). Before I go experimenting some more, I`d like to understand how a downshift is supposed to be done properly with an autoblipper, with the throttle wide open, closed or partially open or at a certain rpm? I`d appreciate some insight. Thanks in advance! |
|
bhilker0604
New Member
Posts: 41
Likes: 8
Registered: Feb 16, 2017 8:14:33 GMT -7
|
Post by bhilker0604 on Jul 3, 2019 4:42:06 GMT -7
Thanks, I trailered it to the dealer and they didn't have time to take me in, but they did work lose the collar around the wires with a screwdriver, then the pin came out. Now I plan to take your advise on cutting the connector off of the original wire (#2) and soldering that to the autoblip wire. Then I'll insert that in (with that collar off). Wish me luck! Watching 650ib video his Translogic blipper works flawlessly it seems to me. Maybe I will have to eat my FTECU and try the Translogic..I have been working with FTECU for a few months attempting to get install correct as my green wire has a square pin but my install instructions say plug into round hole # 12...I have MT-10 2018 purchased from Ohio Sending pics back and forth to determine if I received the wrong auto-blipper |
|
bigweb2001
New Member
Posts: 34
Likes: 13
Registered: Jan 8, 2017 10:00:06 GMT -7
|
Post by bigweb2001 on Jul 3, 2019 4:54:02 GMT -7
Let me know how it goes. I'll contact them too, the instructions I found were for a 2017 (mine is a 2018, but didn't see that listed) and it states the #2 hole. I was planning on the splice, but now I think I will just trash this thing and try translogic.
|
|
arkenskooter
New Member
Posts: 34
Likes: 7
Registered: Mar 19, 2018 20:34:35 GMT -7
|
Post by arkenskooter on Jul 3, 2019 6:28:57 GMT -7
Ok, I think I have it figured, feel free to correct me if I am wrong. The downshift doesn't work exactly like the upshift, in that you have to rev-match a downshift as opposed to upshifting at any rpm above 2000.
I did test it out again this morning and it seems like you have to apply gentle pressure on the downshift while trying to throttle up or down to find the rev-match. That seemed to work for me. It also means that you may not always be able to downshift because you may be at too high of an rpm already.
The upshift put a stupid grin on my face coming in to work this morning 😁
|
|
.