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Post by achrista on Dec 27, 2017 17:18:13 GMT -7
Coming from an r6, the brakes on the mt were a surprising and valid complaint. My first performance mod is going to be SS brake lines. I wanted to ask you guys if this has been sufficient in resolving the squishy brake feel issue, or is a master cylinder and/or pad swap necessary to get good bite? I really don't want to deal with the switch issues to keep cruise control and brake light functionality that come with the master cylinder swap, but I can if it really is necessary.
If it matters, I won't be tracking, but I do like aggressive riding in twisties.
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mrhix
Full Member
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Registered: Sept 11, 2016 19:24:17 GMT -7
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Post by mrhix on Dec 27, 2017 17:38:29 GMT -7
I think you should replace the pads with something like EBC HH pads and see how they work for you. I put the SS lines on first and found out later that the pads did more for braking than the lines. The lines help, but you can always try them later.
Cheers,
MrHix
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Post by RedAndBlack on Dec 27, 2017 23:24:23 GMT -7
It can certainly help. I've done R1 master, lines and pads and the brakes are now incredible. I do basically nothing but canyon carving with the bike though so tip top brake response was a big deal to me. My FZ10 brakes now feel better than the brakes on my 636 that has a brembo master cylinder and the same brake pads but standard lines. So there definitely is a noticeable difference especially as the standard lines on my 636 have aged and probably could use replacement.
For everyday riders, I would say you would probably see improvement from just brake pads alone. But steel braided lines will certainly help with brake response and brake fade. But it could be a costly upgrade and be overkill depending on what you use the bike for.
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av8er
Junior Member
If my bike could travel at the speed of light, would my headlights work?
Posts: 73
Likes: 49
Registered: Jun 21, 2017 1:47:08 GMT -7
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Post by av8er on Dec 28, 2017 6:20:06 GMT -7
I think you should replace the pads with something like EBC HH pads and see how they work for you. I put the SS lines on first and found out later that the pads did more for braking than the lines. The lines help, but you can always try them later. Cheers, MrHix Agreed. I put the sintered pads by EBC on also and after a short ride of breaking in the pads, it was like night and day. I felt no need for the stainless brake lines afterwards. Unless you track your bike a lot where you would be subject to some brake fade , stainless steel lines look great but of very little value. IMHO |
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Post by achrista on Dec 29, 2017 9:25:15 GMT -7
Thanks guys. Based on your suggestions I'll start with the cheapest and easiest potential solution (pads) and see if the braking is closer to adequate afterwards.
If there were a plug and play FMC solution for cruise control/brake light functionality that didn't involve altering the OEM switch, I would probably go ahead and do a master cylinder and SS line swap.
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Post by RedAndBlack on Dec 29, 2017 12:31:18 GMT -7
Thanks guys. Based on your suggestions I'll start with the cheapest and easiest potential solution (pads) and see if the braking is closer to adequate afterwards. If there were a plug and play FMC solution for cruise control/brake light functionality that didn't involve altering the OEM switch, I would probably go ahead and do a master cylinder and SS line swap. I did the OEM switch modification as suggested by Stoltec Moto in his bike build post. It really wasn't too bad. A little time consuming to get it right but it was pretty easy modification. Well worth the trouble.
But yea, its probably a good idea to start with pads and then take it from there to decide if you need more braking response.
Just to give you another option, I use SBS pads. Amazing brake pads and they design the individual models with different sub models for street use vs track use vs race use to get a more specific pad for your application. This is important because brakes work differently at different temperatures. Obviously you need a brake pad that works at low temps for street use and if you ride aggressive enough or do track days, you want something that works a little better at higher temps. They're a European brand so I think you have to search by MT-10 when looking for the right pad but plenty of US vendors sell them. But great pads.
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ghostrider1127
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Posts: 245
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Registered: Sept 11, 2016 7:06:10 GMT -7
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Post by ghostrider1127 on Dec 30, 2017 0:02:45 GMT -7
Thanks guys. Based on your suggestions I'll start with the cheapest and easiest potential solution (pads) and see if the braking is closer to adequate afterwards. If there were a plug and play FMC solution for cruise control/brake light functionality that didn't involve altering the OEM switch, I would probably go ahead and do a master cylinder and SS line swap. Plug and play solution : R1->2015 master with the oem switch suggest: pads , master , rotors before braided lines (as they are pretty good)  ebay image hosting |
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Post by achrista on Dec 30, 2017 8:50:12 GMT -7
Interesting -- I was under the impression that the oem r1 switch doesn't have the two stage capability the fz/mt needs to run cruise control.
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Post by RedAndBlack on Dec 31, 2017 1:23:46 GMT -7
Interesting -- I was under the impression that the oem r1 switch doesn't have the two stage capability the fz/mt needs to run cruise control. I don't believe the R1 switch does but the FZ10 OEM switch will work with the R1 master cylinder. It fits. The only problem is that there is a little delay between the brake light and brake engagement so if you're slightly on your brakes, your brake light might not come on. So if you care enough about that, you can either shave down the "nipple" on the brake switch or open the switch up and cut out one of the plastic tabs out of the switch. I cut some of the plastic out of the inside of the switch as Stoltec Moto detailed in his build thread and everything works great. |
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ghostrider1127
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Posts: 245
Likes: 185
Registered: Sept 11, 2016 7:06:10 GMT -7
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Post by ghostrider1127 on Dec 31, 2017 6:39:26 GMT -7
Interesting -- I was under the impression that the oem r1 switch doesn't have the two stage capability the fz/mt needs to run cruise control. I don't believe the R1 switch does but the FZ10 OEM switch will work with the R1 master cylinder. It fits. The only problem is that there is a little delay between the brake light and brake engagement so if you're slightly on your brakes, your brake light might not come on. So if you care enough about that, you can either shave down the "nipple" on the brake switch or open the switch up and cut out one of the plastic tabs out of the switch. I cut some of the plastic out of the inside of the switch as Stoltec Moto detailed in his build thread and everything works great. This delay can be fixed moving the switch , Nick did a good job |
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